Sculpting the face step by step with dry correctors and shadows. How to do makeup correctly, diagram, photo and video instructions

From this article you will learn how to correctly sculpt your face step by step; we will provide detailed instructions, diagrams, photos and videos. We will also talk about the best products for contouring, the differences between working with oily and dry concealers.

Let's start by defining technology. What it is? This is a method of applying makeup that simulates an oval shape. Using a palette with foundation and other coatings, you can hide imperfections and highlight natural features, softening them or highlighting them. This type of makeup appeared and became popular many years ago - in the seventies in Hollywood.

Features of sculpting. Photo

Sculpting or contouring is nothing new to Hollywood makeup artists, having used it during the golden age of cinema. However, this makeup technique has only become a fashion trend in recent years. Now it is as integral to everyday makeup as mascara or tinted lips.

Sculpting a face from a photo step by step.

Contouring is aimed at modeling the relief and facial features. This is achieved by darkening and highlighting certain areas.

The technique allows:

• Reduce volume in the face area.
• Get rid of a double chin.
• Emphasize cheekbones.
• Make the nose thinner and change its shape.
• Correct the chin and forehead.

Thanks to the contrast of light and shadow, it is possible to add volume or remove it in the right places. Moreover, the contouring technique is simple enough to repeat at home.

Oily skin

Oily facial skin: what to do?

There are 4 skin types. Among them, oily facial skin causes the greatest number of problems, since it is characterized by a number of negative signs. Most often, patient dissatisfaction is caused by such characteristic signs as greasy shine, the presence of enlarged pores, and comedones. In addition, it is with this option that the development of various inflammatory elements is most typical. Cosmetologists know best what to do in cases where oily skin causes concern. It is in their competence to clarify the situation and competently care for oily facial skin.

Causes of oily skin

Increased activity of the sebaceous glands leads to the appearance of excessive oily skin. The predisposing factors for this are the following:

• Heredity and individual characteristics;
• Endocrine disorders;
• Non-compliance with the diet;
• Disturbances in the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract;
• Incorrectly selected skin care, low quality cleansing procedures.

Skin type is not a constant value, and in the course of life it can change. Oily skin is more common in young people under the age of 25. In the future, in most cases, it transforms into a combined type. However, in cases where the main causes of oily facial skin are genetic, its clinical signs may persist throughout life. This development of the situation is observed in 5-7% of the population.

Hormonal imbalance is the factor that most influences the increase in oily skin. This process can develop both during puberty and with endocrine pathology. In women, the causes of oily facial skin in adulthood can be polycystic ovary syndrome, insufficient thyroid function, pregnancy, menopause, and uncontrolled use of oral contraceptives. Stress also contributes significantly to the development of symptoms.

Unbalanced functioning of the gastrointestinal tract, especially its manifestations such as constipation, is another prerequisite that affects the increase in oily skin. Poor nutrition, consumption of preservatives, fatty or spicy foods, easily digestible carbohydrates, as well as alcohol and carbonated drinks are also a negative factor.

Characteristics of oily skin

The quality of the skin and excessive oiliness appear unevenly in different areas of the face, which is due to the peculiar distribution of the sebaceous glands in its thickness. It is the accumulation of excretory ducts in certain places that explains the causes of oily skin on the forehead, nose and chin area. Characteristic areas are also located in the back or décolleté area. Often such negative signs are combined with oily hair. In women and men, these signs are usually expressed equally.

Typical manifestations of oily skin are oiliness and a greasy shine. It seems thickened. Excess sebum accumulating on the surface contributes to clogging of pores, their expansion, the formation of blackheads, comedones, and whiteheads, milia. Externally, oily skin on the forehead, nose and chin area resembles an orange peel.

Such signs have a negative effect not only on aesthetics. Oily skin of the forehead and other areas of the T-zone becomes the most preferred location for the localization of inflammatory elements, acne. This is explained by the fact that the narrow duct of the sebaceous gland and the production of an excess amount of secretion contribute to blockage of the excretory ducts of the glands, stagnation of secretion in it and infection. As a result, pustules with purulent contents appear. What to do if oily skin on the forehead is accompanied by the formation of pustular elements, a dermatologist will clarify. It is within his competence to prescribe treatment for acne. The services of a cosmetologist will be in demand only after the inflammatory process has subsided.

However, oily skin also has a number of positive signs. It is more capable of retaining moisture than dry. In this regard, its turgor remains at the same level. Much later, people with oily skin develop wrinkles.

Features of oily skin care

If your facial skin is very oily, a cosmetologist will most competently explain what to do and how to improve its quality. It should be taken into account that incorrect measures, even the use of exclusively external means, can aggravate the situation. The lack of a competent approach in this case may be ineffective or dangerous. You need to trust the professionals. A qualified cosmetologist will select appropriate facial skin care products. If additional procedures are needed to achieve the desired effect, he will carry them out competently. The doctor’s actions in this case should be aimed at reducing the production of sebum and removing its excess, cleansing the pores.

At home, this effect can be achieved by the following steps:

1. Thorough cleansing of the skin using foam, gel or mousse for oily skin. To get the desired effect, it is recommended to carry out the procedure twice a day;
2. Excluding actions that promote the activity of the sebaceous gland and the formation of excess sebum. These include frequent scrubbing procedures, the use of hot water and a washcloth for washing, the use of fatty cream, and alcohol-containing tonic;
3. Normalization of the diet, excluding foods that have a negative impact on the quality of the skin.

An important step towards correcting existing deficiencies is to find out the causes of excess oily skin. In this regard, in addition to the measures prescribed by the cosmetologist, it would not be amiss to consult an endocrinologist and gastroenterologist. It is in their competence to give recommendations on what to do if oily facial skin is caused by concomitant diseases. In some cases, without appropriate treatment, it will not be possible to achieve a lasting improvement in the situation. The required result will be achieved only with an integrated approach.

Of great importance in the fight against the negative signs that accompany oily skin is the correct choice of cosmetic products for daily care. They should all be designed for oily skin, absorb quickly, leaving no shine. Preference is given to a delicate consistency and liquid structure.

In such a situation, it is recommended to scrub the skin 1-2 times a week. It would be optimal to use a film mask as a cleansing procedure, which will most carefully remove dead cells from the surface layer of the dermis. Masks with anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating, and keratolytic properties are also recommended.

Cosmetologists define what to do if your facial skin is too oily:

1. In addition to regular home care, salon cleansing procedures are recommended;
2. It is necessary to adhere to the diet;
3. Comprehensive examination by related specialists regarding concomitant pathology.

Salon treatments for oily skin

Salon treatments are more effective than care provided at home. By normalizing the functioning of the sebaceous glands, they can improve the quality of the skin and reduce its oiliness in a shorter time. In this case, experts recommend the following measures:

• professional care for oily skin;
• cleansing procedures, cleansing, peeling;
• hardware techniques, ultraphonophoresis, darsonvalization;
• injection procedures, mesotherapy, biorevitalization;
• facial massage, which, by improving microcirculation in the facial area, helps normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands;
• cryomassage procedure aimed at narrowing pores.

Facial skin cleansing activities are carried out by using external products, applying a cleansing mask, as well as peeling and cleansing. In this case, depending on predisposing factors, ultrasonic, mechanical, and chemical facial cleansing can be used.

Despite the emergence of more innovative means, it is with the help of manual manipulation and a special spoon that it is often possible to get rid of all blackheads during one session. Other procedures, although less traumatic, do not allow obtaining such a quick and pronounced result. However, during mechanical cleaning it is possible that areas of hyperemia may appear, so before important events in the client’s life, specialists give preference to ultrasonic cleaning.

Among procedures aimed at eliminating excess oily skin, all-season peels are very popular. A special role is given to enzymatic peeling, the activity of which is ensured by enzymes. They destroy the substance that holds the horny scales, thereby promoting their independent exfoliation. The gentle effect and the absence of mechanical forces during the procedure ensure its safety and allow peeling not only in the salon, but also at home.

Here are a few questions that our clinic clients most often ask us.
Is it necessary to use moisturizer if you have oily skin?
Although oily skin loses moisture less rapidly than dry skin, it should also be hydrated.
A sufficient amount of hyaluronic acid, thermal water and other hydrofixatives in the composition of external products ensures the process of renewal of the epidermis. Thus, the necessary cleansing effect is achieved and the appearance of oily skin is reduced. How to deal with oily shine throughout the day?
In order to mask the greasy shine as efficiently as possible, you need to choose the right choice of both medicinal and decorative cosmetics.
Care products should be designed for oily skin and have a delicate texture. If possible, cleansing the skin should be done at least 2 times a day. Foundations and shadows should be powdery in nature with a mattifying effect. Creamy cosmetics will only emphasize the signs of oiliness. How to wipe your face if you have oily skin?
Cold water helps to tone oily skin and narrow pores, so some improvement can be achieved by rubbing the skin with ice cubes. The cosmetics industry is also replete with tonics designed for oily skin. The absence of alcohol in them eliminates the increase in the activity of the sebaceous gland. At the same time, they contain extracts of plant herbs that have a mattifying effect.

Pros and cons of contouring

This makeup technique has a number of advantages:

• Possibility of significant transformation of facial features.
• The need for a minimum set of cosmetics and brushes.
• Ease of execution.
• Quick application.
• Natural result.

However, you can get a positive effect from sculpting only if you master the shading technique.

If it is violated, you will have to face the disadvantages of contouring:

• Noticeable transition lines.
• Red spots on the face.
• Unnatural result.
• Feeling of a “layer cake” on the face.

What is needed for contouring?

Face sculpting (the photo shows step by step the full set of cosmetics for this makeup) is carried out using:

• Makeup bases.
• A sculpting product for creating shadow or a contouring palette.
• Highlighter to create lightened areas.
• Transparent powder.
• Blending brushes.

Face sculpting: the photo shows step by step the procedure for using cosmetics when contouring
Before you start modeling your face, you need to purchase a base and finishing product. The makeup base provides an even texture for natural blending and also makes sculpting products more intense. It should be chosen according to your skin type: mattifying, moisturizing or hiding imperfections in tone.

To consolidate the result and make-up durability, a finishing transparent powder is required.

Choosing a sculpting product

Sculpting products are available in various textures:

• Dry sculpting blushes and powders are best suited for everyday contouring. The light dry texture falls on the skin like a thin veil, creating a natural shadow.
• Cream products are used for shooting in front of the camera. Thanks to the rich texture and vibrant hues, color does not disappear through the lens. This texture is not suitable for everyday makeup. In real life, she clearly stands out and looks unnatural.

Applying and blending cream contouring products is difficult, so it is not recommended to do so without the skills of a makeup artist.

• Sculpting products in sticks have a delicate and light creamy texture. Thanks to this, they create a natural shadow that is easy to shade. The sticks have a moisturizing effect and are therefore suitable for dry skin. Unlike powder, they do not emphasize flaking.

Only matte products are suitable for facial modeling. The tone can be either warm or cold. Makeup artists recommend combining both tones to create a natural shadow without red or gray. Sculpting palettes that combine several shades are designed for this.

When choosing a color, take into account your natural skin tone. The contouring product should be 1 to 2 shades darker.

How to choose a sculptor by texture

Contouring products come in dry and creamy textures. Powder sculptors are recommended for those with oily or combination skin types, because... they have a good matting effect. Such products are also easier to apply to the skin.

Creamy formulas (for example, in the form of sticks) are more suitable for normal to dry skin. But shading them requires a certain skill. If you are not confident in your abilities, give preference to dry products for sculpting makeup.

Highlighter selection

Sculpting the face (the photos show step by step not only the effect of shadow, but also light) is impossible without a highlighter. Thanks to it, it is possible to highlight certain areas to give them volume and a delicate glow.

Highlighters differ in texture:

• The liquid highlighter has a water-like texture. It is recommended for use by beginners who are just mastering the contouring technique. Thanks to its light texture, you can't overdo it with this product and it's easy to layer. The liquid product creates the most natural and delicate effect.
• Creamy texture is the most versatile. It is suitable for any skin type. This highlighter is not difficult to blend. To achieve the desired effect, a pea-sized amount of product is enough.

The application of the product does not take much time as the creamy texture is well pigmented.

• The sticks have a viscous and rich creamy texture. They are most convenient to apply due to the packaging format. In addition, sticks are most often used when it is necessary to frequently transport highlighter. However, they are contraindicated for oily skin due to the risk of clogging pores.
• Dry and crumbly highlighters have a powder-like texture. They are convenient to use on oily skin, which tends to quickly absorb other textures. This product can only be applied with a brush.

When choosing a highlighter, you need to decide on the color and size of the shining particles. The shade of the product can be silver, golden or pinkish. Radiant particles are small and unnoticeable, which is necessary to create the effect of natural illumination of the skin from the inside. There are also highlighters with large sparkles, each of which is noticeable individually.

These products are appropriate for evening makeup or on set. Some companies produce highlighter palettes that combine different shades.

Bronzer and highlighter shade

Choosing the right shade is half the success. When choosing a sculptor, you should test products only on your own skin. The light shade should be one or two shades lighter than the color of the foundation you usually use. To create a shadow you need a shade one or two darker. When contouring the subzygomatic area, the color of your own shadow is used, as when choosing a shade you need to focus on the shadow areas of the face.

Those with pale skin should not use products with an orange undertone or too dark sculptors; taupe is suitable as a dark shade. Dark skin needs a copper-bronze highlighter.

Choosing Contouring Brushes

Brushes are required for uniform application and natural shading of sculpting products.

They differ in shape:

• Beveled.
• Universal oval.
• Flat with short pile.
• With a tapered tip.

The brush can be of any shape. It is important that it is comfortable. The most versatile is the flat brush. It allows you to work on both large areas of the face and small ones, for example, the corners of the eyes or the wings of the nose. The brush should be tightly packed and its bristles elastic.

You should not buy brushes with cut bristles as they leave uneven stains. It is better to choose hand-stamped instruments.

Brushes are made from natural and synthetic fibers, as well as mixed ones - duo-fiber. Natural bristles are suitable for dry textures, and synthetic or duofiber for creamy textures. When blending creamy textures, you can also use a sponge or use your fingers.

Contouring: step-by-step instructions for a round face

To model a round face type, you must follow the recommendations:

1. Apply a makeup base to the entire surface of the face, as well as foundation if necessary.
2. Darkening the area of ​​the cheekbones and cheeks with a sculpting agent.
3. Darkening of the temporal zone.
4. Darkening of the wings of the nose.
5. Highlighting the central part of the forehead and chin.
6. Highlighting the back of the nose. If there is a hump, it is necessary to darken it.
7. Brightening the area under the eyes.
8. Applying setting finishing powder.

The story is about how to determine your face type in order to properly smooth out its imperfections with the help of a highlighter:

Thanks to this makeup technique, you can visually narrow the face, creating a shadow in the area of ​​its periphery. In this case, the main darkening emphasis falls on the cheek area. Highlighting the central part of the face gives it a look close to an ideal oval.

A few words about nose modeling

In order to visually widen or narrow the nose, apply a light-colored sculpting strip of the desired width to its back. Carefully blend the borders. Darken the sides of the nose. Do you want your nose to appear visually shorter? Apply a dark tone to its tip. You can work with either a brush or your fingers. The main thing to remember is smooth border crossings.

To look perfect, you need to practice more often. We wish you to successfully develop your skills, shine when going out and look natural at the same time.

Heart-shaped face modeling

Face sculpting (photos help you create the perfect makeup step by step) should be done in stages:

1. It is necessary to even out the tone of the face. To do this, apply a makeup base, as well as foundation and corrector if there are visible imperfections on the skin. Before moving on to the next step, you should wait 1 - 3 minutes for the base to be absorbed into the skin.
2. To visually smooth out the shape of the face, it is necessary to darken the area above the cheekbones, as well as the temporal area. It is important that the darkening falls on the area up to the middle of the face.
3. Dark contouring powder needs to be blended from the temples to the hairline. In this case, the central part of the forehead should remain untouched.
4. The area above the bridge of the nose needs to be brightened with a highlighter. The product must be shaded in the shape of a small triangle.
5. In the chin area, you will need to lighten the central part, and darken the area under the chin.
6. The highlighter should be applied to the central part of the nose, as well as to the area under the eyes.
7. The final touch is the distribution of transparent powder in a thin layer.

Thanks to the visual smoothing of the sharp corners of a heart-shaped face, its shape will be closer to an oval one.

What to do with a full face?

The appearance of Slavic girls and Asian women is characterized by a wide face. Therefore, recommendations for visually reducing width and emphasizing the relief are suitable not only for obese women. Also, with the help of sculpting, skin defects are masked.

To make up a full or wide face, you need to purchase light and dark foundation, powder or cream blush, concealer, corrector, highlighter of a neutral shade, bronzer without reddishness, and transparent powder. Don't forget about eye makeup and lipstick.

When using cream textures to apply cosmetics, you will need sponges and brushes to shape your face. To apply powder you need a rounded angled brush.

When sculpting a full face, you need to visually draw an oval and cover everything behind it with dark products. The main work will take place inside the oval

You can contour your face with cream textures yourself if you follow the instructions:

• Moisten face and prepare before treatment.
• Soak a sponge in water, squeeze it well and apply a thin layer of a light base.
• Hide imperfections with concealer and mask under-eye circles with concealer.
• Darken the contours of the face with foundation, shade the lines.
• To visually narrow the cheeks, you need to draw an oblique strip in a dark tone along the depression that is formed due to the retraction of the cheeks. The line is shaded towards the temples with light movements of the brush or fingers.
• Gently spread blush onto the apples of your cheeks. Do not place them close to the wings of the nose, so as not to visually expand it further.
• Narrow the large nose with highlighter, darkening the wings with a dark shade.
• Apply cream highlighter evenly to the top of your cheekbones.
• Complete the correction with eye makeup.

Contour lines for a full round face
Correction of a full face is a real salvation for overweight girls. Makeup preserves individual features and adds attractiveness without surgical intervention. In order not to overdo it with cosmetics, makeup artists recommend visiting the salon for the first time. This will allow you to see the features of sculpting a full face.

Advice! Avoid rough dark eyeliner, vulgar bright shadows and unevenly applied lipstick, so as not to visually age your face.

Contouring for a triangular face

Correction of a triangular face shape is carried out in the following stages:

1. Creating a foundation by applying makeup base, concealer or foundation.
2. Darkening the area above the cheekbones, as well as the lower part of the face under the cheekbones.
3. Apply dark contouring powder to the center area under the chin.
4. Darkening the forehead along the entire hairline.
5. Apply highlighter to the entire chin area, excluding the darkened area below.
6. Blend the highlighter from the central part of the forehead to the bridge of the nose, and then to the bridge of the nose.
7. Lightening the inner corners of the eyes.
8. Fix the result with transparent powder.

Correction of this face shape is aimed at visually smoothing out the angularity that is characteristic of a triangular shape.

Sculpting a Square Face

Modeling a square-type face must be done step by step:

1. You need to create an even tone using a makeup base.
2. The darkening agent must be applied to the cheekbones, blending into the area under the cheekbones.
3. In the forehead area, areas where there are noticeable protrusions should be darkened. Darkening is done along the hairline. At the same time, the central zone, as well as the area above the temples, remain untouched.
4. The darkening of the wings of the nose is carried out from the inner corner of the eyebrows. In this case, the line is shaded towards the tip of the nose, which means its intensity decreases.
5. The highlighter should be distributed in the center of the forehead, chin, and also in the area around the eyes.
6. To set the makeup, apply a thin layer of transparent powder.

Contouring a square face is aimed at making the lines visually smoother.

Is contouring necessary for oval face types?

The oval face type is the canon of beauty. However, it can also be sculpted. In this case, the main goal will be to emphasize and highlight the natural features of the face in order to enhance their beauty.

Modeling is carried out in several stages:

1. Applying base for makeup.
2. Darkening the area under the cheekbones.
3. Apply highlighter to the chin, center of the forehead and bridge of the nose.
4. Applying a sculpting agent to the wings of the nose with shading along the upper eyelid along the eyebrow growth line, which is carried out to its bend.
5. Lightening the area under the eyes, as well as the inner corners of the eyes, the break point of the eyebrow.
6. Set contouring with finishing powder.

An oval face requires minimal correction. Unlike other face types, it is aimed at emphasizing the natural smoothness of facial features, and not at their visual smoothing.

Common Mistakes

Sculpting the face (step-by-step photos cannot reflect all the details and subtleties of the technique) can occur with errors.

The most common of them are:

• Inability to model a face in accordance with individual characteristics. Contouring is not intended for drawing a new face. This technique only allows you to adjust facial features so as to highlight your strengths and darken your flaws. Don't lose your individuality.
• Incorrect placement of light highlights, which disrupts the harmony of makeup. You should not apply highlighter all over your face or large areas, as it is intended only for placing light accents and does not serve as a replacement for powder.
• The absence of blush on the face makes it not alive. Don't limit yourself to just contouring powder and highlighter. It is necessary to complement your makeup with bronzing blush, matched to your skin color.
• Improperly preparing your skin for contouring can ruin your entire makeup. It is imperative to use the base. If this is not enough to even out the surface of the skin, you can apply foundation or BB cream.
• Using the wrong colors creates dirty spots on your face. You should not choose a contouring product that is too warm red or dark gray. It is better to mix warm and cool tones, and choose the color based on your skin tone. You should also avoid products with yellow tint.
• Insufficient shading of lines leads to imbalanced proportions, making facial features look unnaturally narrow or wide.

If you have problems with shading, you should use a quality brush. You shouldn’t put a lot of product on it, and it’s also important to shake off any excess.

The Best Palettes for Sculpting

Nyx'S Pro Palette for sculpting

Nyx'S Pro Palette is an affordable buy that includes eight shades. With these many options, you'll always have the perfect palette available for your skin tone.

Too Faced Sculpting Palette

This contour palette includes a four-step process to carve out your facial features. Mix and match contour shades and highlighting powders to create contrast in all the right areas.

REVOLUTION HD Pro Cream Contour medium dark contour palette

For the beginner, this set has designed a starter palette equipped with the most basic tech essentials. The palette also includes a how-to guide that offers step-by-step guidance on sculpting the nose, cheeks, and chin.

Marc Jacobs -Light filtration contour palette

For a beauty look that's Instaworthy (without any filters), Marc Jacobs brings us the palette, available in three shading/highlighting duos that create natural-looking facial size.

DIVAGE Good Vibes Only Face Sculpting Palette

Designed by the queen of the beauty industry's brows, this must-have kit comes with six multi-use shades ranging from light to deep. It's everything you need to sculpt your face in one convenient palette.

Tips from makeup artists

Professional tips to help you achieve perfect makeup:

• Before applying contouring products, you need to carefully look at the reflection of your face in the mirror. You will need to imagine an oval in place of your own face. What goes beyond his features must be obscured.
• If difficulties arise with visual presentation, a face chart will help. It can be purchased at any makeup store. The face chart shows different types of faces so that the makeup artist can apply makeup and see how it will look on one type or another.
• It is important to lighten a small area under the cheekbones - the hollow, which is noticeable when you turn your head. This will prevent your cheekbones from becoming too sunken and prevent your face from looking sallow.
• It is easier to control the precision of highlighter application with a thin and flat brush. Afterwards, the application area must be shaded with a contouring brush. This way you will be able to correctly arrange the highlights, avoiding going overboard with the highlighter.
• For evening makeup or shooting in front of a camera, you need to use a dry texture of a contouring product on top of a cream one.

This way you will be able to achieve the most expressive effect, and your makeup will become more durable.

Moisturizing and dry correction: differences

The difference lies in the decorative means used to make the makeup. They can have a dry or creamy texture. The former are most often used for everyday life. This palette will highlight the features you want to focus on and hide problem areas. The tone will be light and dim.

Oily correctors will help create a dense coating and change your appearance almost beyond recognition. Makeup applied with such a product may be too visible in daylight. It is perfect for an evening look or a photo shoot.

The Best Contouring Products

Facial sculpting is impossible without high-quality cosmetic products. The procedure and technique for applying them will be indicated by step-by-step photos of contouring.

By sculpting your face you can transform its features. This technique is done quite simply with the help of step-by-step photos. The main thing is not to forget about individual characteristics so that the result of the makeup is harmonious.

Author: Alena Lash

Article design: E. Chaikina