How to do face sculpting correctly for different types


From this article you will learn how to correctly sculpt your face step by step; we will provide detailed instructions, diagrams, photos and videos. We will also talk about the best products for contouring, the differences between working with oily and dry concealers.

Let's start by defining technology. What it is? This is a method of applying makeup that simulates an oval shape. Using a palette with foundation and other coatings, you can hide imperfections and highlight natural features, softening them or highlighting them. This type of makeup appeared and became popular many years ago - in the seventies in Hollywood.

Sculpting Basics

First of all, you need to find out what type of face you have. It will be easier for you to determine this if you put your hair in a ponytail and look in the mirror. Trace the reflection with lipstick or marker. Match the resulting drawing with the geometric figure that most closely resembles it. The second stage is the selection of a palette and materials for work.

What cosmetics and tools are needed for contouring?

You need to choose a palette for your color type: spring, summer, autumn or winter. This can be difficult, since the set often contains one tone that is too saturated or light. In this case, you can get the options you need in separate packaging.

Remember a few rules:

  • Makeup base should not contain glitter.
  • Products with a shiny effect can only be used on the cheekbones, literally a few points.
  • To change the oval, purchase three shades: close to natural, darker (by one or two tones), reflective.
  • Cosmetics with a creamy texture are suitable for those with dry and normal skin. With powder – for oily and combination skin. It hides unwanted shine, blends easily, and creates a weightless layer.
  • Choose 2 types of blush: one light, the other darker. Delicate salmon colors suit white-skinned girls, peach colors suit darker girls. There are special sculpting products just for emphasizing the cheekbones.

In addition to the decorative products themselves, you will need tools for their distribution. These could be sponges. It is especially good to use a beauty blender with a pointed end for these purposes. This is a drop-shaped or other shaped sponge, which is convenient for applying correctors, concealers, and foundation in the corners of the eyes, nose, and lips. In addition, it shades the tone evenly and leaves no spots or borders.

If you like brushes, purchase several options:

  • Flat semicircular. It is coated with it.
  • Beveled, kabuki and domed. To erase boundaries between layers.
  • Thin. For drawing neat lines on the nose, under the eyebrows, eyes.

How to choose a shade of sculpting product?

Like any foundation, you should choose a sculptor based primarily on the natural color of your skin. And also for what purpose you need it.


© nyxcosmetics

1

The shade of the light sculpting product that you will use to “highlight” this or that area should be a tone or two lighter than your skin, and the dark one should be a tone or two darker.

2

For the subzygomatic area, use a sculpting powder in the color of your own shadow: what shade is your shadow, ideally the sculpting powder should be the same.

3

If the sculpting powder is too dark, it will look like a dirty stain on the skin, so choose the lighter one between the two options.

4

The undertone of the sculpting product should match the undertone of your skin. Otherwise, what happens is that if your skin has a cool undertone and the sculpt contains warm orange pigments, it will look like dirt on the skin.

5

If you have pale skin, avoid using shades that are too dark or orange. Your ideal option is taupe.

6

For dark or tanned skin, you can use bronzer instead of powder. But make sure that it does not contain shiny particles - this will not be able to imitate a “shadow” on the face.

7

For very dark skin, a dark highlighter with reddish pigments is suitable, but in general it is better in this case to get by with just one highlighter.

Apply highlighter to those areas of the face where the light first falls: the top line of the cheekbones, the center of the face, the center of the chin, the bridge of the nose.

And, again, consider your skin undertone: if it is reddish or pinkish, a silver highlighter will suit you, and for olive skin, a golden one.


© maybelline

Basic rules for face sculpting

Contouring cannot be rushed; it must be approached intelligently and creatively. Make light strokes and shade them thoroughly. Pre-prepare your skin: cleanse and apply makeup base.

Usually those areas that need to be hidden are darkened. Highlight those that are important to emphasize. It is best to create makeup in daylight. Take a photo of the result; the flaws are clearly visible in the photo. Also remember that all diagrams and instructions are advisory in nature. Each person’s appearance has individual characteristics, so try not just to follow the rules, but also adapt them for yourself.

Sculpting a round face

The following steps will help you change fuzzy and smooth lines to stricter and more prominent ones:

  • Darkening along the edges of the outline.
  • Draw semicircular arcs on each cheek with a dark corrector, their middle should be near the ear.
  • Flat relief is corrected by working on the nasolabial area. Apply light products to the inner area, limited by the intersection from the outer corners of the eyes to the lips. Apply the same tone to the bridge of your nose.
  • Outline the bridge of the nose with thin strokes of rich color.
  • On the chin, draw rounded arcs on the sides and in the center. Only a matte base is suitable for this.

Sculpting an oval face

This oval is considered the most proportional and does not require strong correction. But highlighting individual features will make the appearance more expressive and impressive.

  • Drawing the cheekbones. Pull in your cheeks and tint the resulting depressions with blush or concealer one or two shades darker than natural. Apply highlighter or a regular light shade a little higher or lower.
  • Chin. Using a small brush or the sharp end of a sponge, outline the desired contour using a rich palette. Create a highlight in the center with reflective material.
  • Using the same cosmetics, place a small dot in the hollow above the lip. Using a thin soft brush painted with white, pink or beige color from the palette, outline the lips and blend the edges down and up.
  • Open look. Using the same palette, line your eyebrows from below without touching them and remove the border.
  • Darken the forehead area near the hairline with bronzer. Two light movements are enough.

Sculpting a Square Face

Girls with this type usually strive to make it less angular and add smoothness. The main rule is to avoid horizontal strokes. They need to be applied with gentle strokes from top to bottom or at an angle.

  • Hide the protruding parts by darkening them, and cover the area from the middle of the forehead to the chin with a contrasting color.
  • To round the cheeks, use a brown shade to draw a triangle with the base from the temple to the lobe and the apex in the center of the cheek. Highlight the area above the cheekbone in the outer corner of the eye. And apply blush on it that matches your appearance.
  • Use a brown tone on the wings of the nose and close to your skin on the bridge of the nose.

Working with triangular type

The method of contouring this type depends on whether it is a regular triangle or an inverted one. In the first case, all efforts are aimed at visually aligning the forehead and jaw. Darken the corners at the bottom and focus on the top. Mark the temples and cheekbones with white or beige highlights. Choose the right makeup for eyebrows and eyes.

If the shape is very narrow at the bottom and widened at the top, do the opposite.

  • Cover all sharp protrusions with a brown tint and blend it so as to visually round them.
  • Squeeze a drop of dark product onto your chin, in the middle, and two light drops around the edges and spread in an even layer.
  • The shadows on the cheeks should be drawn in the form of a diamond.

Working with diamond type

Like the oval one, this type requires least adjustment. It is characterized by a narrow top and bottom. You can either soften the contour or enhance its relief. The first option can be used for daytime makeup, and the second for evening makeup. Basically the same technique as for the triangular shape is used, but without shading the forehead.

  • Make broad, light strokes, painting the center of the forehead, the back of the nose, and the chin.
  • Place accents with highlighter at the temples and along the edges of the jaw. Their location depends on individual characteristics.
  • Highlight not only the eyes, but also the lips.

Full face correction

Usually, owners of such an oval shape try to visually reduce their cheeks and hide a large chin. Use a cosmetics set of foundation, bronzer, highlighter, concealer and powder. In this type of makeup, it is important to focus on the eyes, eyebrows and lips. They should be noticeable.

  • Use a product one or two shades darker than your skin to shade your cheeks. You can apply it to the base coat or to clean skin, and spread the base layer on top. Draw in your cheeks and paint the area under the hollow, as well as the forehead along the hairline.
  • Highlight the jaw with a gray or brown shade and blend it downwards.
  • Use salmon or peach blush on your cheekbones and blur the lines using the brush in a downward motion.
  • A reflective coating will only be needed for the inner corners of the eyes and the area under the eyebrows.
  • Apply matte bronzer over the entire contour and set the result with powder.

What you need for facial contouring: list of cosmetics

As mentioned above, sculpting is done using cosmetics of different natural tones. You can use both special products and regular powder or foundation, just choosing darker and lighter shades. So, some of the products that will be useful in the contouring process include:

  • Primer
  • Highlighter
  • Corrector
  • Concealer
  • primer is a makeup base that is used even before foundation. It allows you to initially disguise all imperfections, and as a result, the foundation goes on smoother, lasts longer, and the decorative elements of cosmetics acquire more saturated shades. Primers contain substances to regulate sebum production, so your face will stay fresh longer;
  • A highlighter is a cosmetic product that is designed to lighten certain areas of the skin. Sometimes it comes with the addition of shimmer, which gives a slight glow to the face. For highlights, light powder and even shadows of certain shades can also be used;
  • corrector is a concealer with a light texture that allows you to disguise imperfections in appearance using color correction. Each shade of the product has its own purpose. Thus, the green corrector helps to neutralize the red tint on the skin, namely inflamed pimples and spider veins;
  • Concealer is a product similar in consistency to foundation, but used spot-on to mask imperfections. It is its dark shades that are used for contouring, applied to areas that require visual reduction;
  • brushes For sculpting, the same brushes that are usually used for applying makeup are suitable. So, to create the main lines you will need synthetic and moderately hard brushes with short bristles, and to shade the borders you will need softer and larger ones.

Step-by-step instructions: how to do proper face sculpting - general rules

First of all, it is necessary to get rid of spots, unevenness, circles under the lower eyelids and other skin defects. Clean it with a special foam, gel or milk and a soft scrub, apply a day cream, moisturizer and makeup base. Then move on to individual features.

  • Eyes. Lighten them up by drawing an inverted triangle shape or thin strokes. You can “open your eyes” using the same tone by sweeping it under the eyebrows.
  • Nose. Cover the back with the lightest concealer. The thinner this area is, the more elegant the result. Limit it to two dark stripes. Apply the first product to the nasolabial folds if they are deep and noticeable.
  • Cheekbones. Select them by drawing lines above and on them. Draw an imaginary straight line from your earlobe to the corner of your mouth. This area needs to be shaded before reaching the lips.
  • Forehead. If it is low, it needs to be lightened. If, on the contrary, it is high, darken the hairline area, apply a white, pink or beige coating in the center in the form of a triangle and arcs above the eyebrows.
  • Chin. It is contoured according to the same rules. Dark correctors create a clear oval and hide sharpness, while contrasting ones expand them.

Now that the makeup is spread over the face, it is important to blend it thoroughly.

  • Erase the lines between the layer of concealer under your eyes and the other color.
  • On the cheekbones, create shade with smooth up and down strokes.
  • The shading on the forehead is blurred first towards the hair and then towards the eyebrows.
  • The shade modeling the bridge of the nose is blurred by moving the brush or sponge towards the bridge of the nose, and then in the other direction. Its borders are down to the wings.

Contouring kits and palettes

In order to do proper contouring, a sculpting product of one shade is usually not enough. In addition, over the course of the year, the skin changes its shade, and the sculptor, who perfectly emphasized the cheekbones back in August, already looks too dark on the skin in September.


© maybelline

To simplify the task, beauty brands produce special contouring palettes with several shades at once, which are designed to solve different problems. In this case, the product can be either powdery or creamy.

The basic palette contains at least two shades: a dark sculptor, which helps create natural shadows on the skin and “sharpen” facial features, and a light highlighter, which can be used to highlight certain areas.

More “advanced” versions of the palettes (for example, Highlight & Contour Pro Palette, NYX Professional Makeup) contain eight different shades that can be mixed together to get the perfect color.


© Makeup.ru

If we are talking about a cream sculptor, then it can also be used instead of a corrector or concealer: there will probably be a suitable shade in the palette. Some palettes also include color blocks, which are useful for color correction of imperfections.


© nyxcosmetics

Moisturizing and dry correction: differences

The difference lies in the decorative means used to make the makeup. They can have a dry or creamy texture. The former are most often used for everyday life. This palette will highlight the features you want to focus on and hide problem areas. The tone will be light and dim.

Oily correctors will help create a dense coating and change your appearance almost beyond recognition. Makeup applied with such a product may be too visible in daylight. It is perfect for an evening look or a photo shoot.

What tools will you need?

Contouring products solve two problems: they darken some areas of the face and lighten others. Below I will show you visual diagrams to make it clear what is applied where. In the meantime, I suggest replenishing your makeup bag with the products that are necessary for this stage of makeup.

What products will you need to contour your face step by step:

  1. Bronzer. This product will help you highlight your cheekbones, visually tighten your face and “hide” everything that goes beyond the desired oval. The bronzer should be several shades darker than your skin.
  2. Highlighter. In the store you will find it in the form of powder, stick, or cream product, but regardless of the form, the purpose is the same. The highlighter contains small shimmer particles and illuminates your skin and gives it radiance.
  3. Blush. Sometimes they can replace bronzer - this is an option for girls with porcelain skin who do not want to overload their daytime makeup with a product that is too dark.
  4. Special palettes or sticks for sculpting . The kits are convenient because they contain everything you need at once. And if the palette has several shades of blush or bronzer, it will be easier for you to find yours and adapt it to the current time of year.

Any of these products can be either dry or creamy in texture. How to choose the right one? Focus on the brightness you want to achieve in the end. Loose products give a lighter result, while liquid products apply more densely and are great for evening makeup or photography.

Expert advice

Follow the listed rules and you will get a neat and beautiful make-up.

  • Shake off any excess powdery makeup from your brush or sponge. Adding the missing layer is much easier than blending the excess amount.
  • Thick cream formulations are easier to use if you first warm them by squeezing or spreading them on your hand.
  • The corrector strip on the cheekbones should not be placed close to the nose or chin. Maintain a distance equal to the width of two fingers.
  • You need to choose an eyebrow shape that suits your type.

Makeup: how to do face sculpting for beginners, at home, step by step using photos and videos

Contouring problem areas

It is not at all necessary to do “full” contouring if you need to solve some local problem: for example, narrow or widen your nose, enlarge your lips, emphasize your cheekbones.

Nose contouring

  • To visually shorten your nose, apply a dark corrector to the very tip.
  • A dark corrector will help to narrow your nose a little: apply it to the sides and blend well.


© Makeup.ru

The following trick will help you “lower” the upturned tip: draw a line across it as shown in the diagram below.


© Makeup.ru

  • To make the “potato nose” more sophisticated, lighten the back of the nose with a highlighter, and apply a dark sculptor on the sides and wings of the nose.


© Makeup.ru

  • If you have a hump on your nose, apply some dark sculptor directly onto it to make it less noticeable.


© Makeup.ru

For other techniques that will help you visually reduce your nose, watch our video:

Lip contouring

  • To quickly plump up your lips, apply highlighter to the swoosh above your upper lip and centered under your chin.
  • Outline your lips with a pencil in the color of the shadow - brownish: before the lipstick or directly on top of the lipstick. There they will look more voluminous.


© Makeup.ru

  • To get lips like Angelina Jolie, draw a line with a dark pencil in the middle of the lower lip under it (try to create the effect that the lower lip is so voluminous that it even casts a shadow). Also, in the center of the lower lip, draw a perpendicular line with the same pencil - as if there is a small “hollow” on the lip. Apply lipstick or gloss on top.


    © nyxcosmetics

Cheek contouring

Thanks to contouring, you can easily make your cheekbones more expressive. Draw a line in a dark tone from the top of the ear to the area just below the cheek. Remember that the color should fade.


© maybelline

Available contouring products

The First Moscow Customs Goods Store has a good selection of cosmetics and tools for creating makeup at affordable prices.

  • A set of sponges and brushes for convenient and quick application of foundations, powders, blushes, and concealers. The composition includes a brush for cleaning these devices.
  • Double ended contour brush.
  • Six-cell palette from Pro Glow Highlight Contour Palette.
  • Palette for sculpting and highlighting Palette 5 Cremes De Camouflage.
  • A set of cool and warm shades for the face Nyx Highlighte Contour Pro Palette.

The assortment also includes bronzers and other decorative cosmetics.

The palette is the best tool for contouring the face

Selecting each of the necessary products separately is a rather complicated and costly task, both in time and money. The smartest decision would be to purchase a set, a palette of correctors and highlighters, which will allow you to create the perfect appearance. There are both fairly simple options and large palettes for professionals:

  • MasterSculpt by Maybelline. Consists of only two shades - contour and highlighter;
  • SleekMakeUp, in addition to contour and highlighter, also includes blush;
  • Sephora contouring palette consists of 5 natural shades;
  • Anastasia Beverly Hills set of 6 shades with dry corrector.

Many cosmetic companies produce contouring kits, including Faberlic, Bobby Brown, and NYX, so there is definitely plenty to choose from.

Contouring a square face

A rectangular or square-shaped face can be made softer with the help of sculpting. The main goal is to smooth out sharp corners.

Basic recommendations for applying makeup, step-by-step guidance:

  • Apply highlighter to the chin;
  • Darken the whiskey with bronzer, sculptor, corrector;
  • The areas under the eyes and the central part of the forehead should be lightened;
  • Shade the lower jaw and cheeks.

Answering questions about contouring, what it is and what it is used for, we can say that it is a way to quickly transform your appearance with the help of cosmetics and brushes. Face sculpting will make any look perfect. You can visually change facial features and focus on certain areas. By following advice from makeup artists on how to do contouring, you can learn how to select cosmetics yourself and create beautiful images.

Best Contouring Brushes

The second thing you need is a few brushes of a suitable shape. I suggest preparing convenient tools so that you can get your makeup done the first time.

What brushes do I recommend using for facial contouring:

  • Fluffy angled brush. Traditionally it is used for blush, but it is also suitable for other dry products. It is convenient to use at any stage: both when you apply the product and when you shade the borders.
  • Kabuki brush. This is the name given to a wide and tightly packed brush with a short handle. If the cut of such a brush is round, it is suitable for dry textures, but if it is straight, you can shade creamy products with it.
  • Large fan brush. You will need it to apply dry highlighter in a thin, weightless layer.

In addition to brushes, you may need a flat sponge or a beauty blender (droplet-shaped). It is most convenient to work with liquid and cream textures using these tools.

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