More and more often, labels appear on product packaging stating that the cream contains urea. The name seems to be simple - much lighter than hyaluronic acid or allantoin, and we often heard about it: at least we saw it in the results of blood tests. But what is the role of urea in cosmetics and where is it extracted from? Can I use it on dry skin and in what products should I look for the treasured ingredient? We decided to clarify this with Alexandra Bogadelnikova, a dermatologist, candidate of medical sciences and expert of the dermatological cosmetics brand Laboratoire SVR.
Why is urea needed in cosmetics?
Urea is found in our body and is responsible for the softness and hydration of the skin. But with age, its concentration inevitably decreases. This is what causes peeling, dryness, tightness and even irritation and microcracks on the skin.
Why is the natural supply of urea decreasing?
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In order to normalize the amount of urea, and at the same time restore youth and a healthy appearance to the skin, this natural and safe element began to be added to cosmetics.
>> We talked about the use of urea in cosmetics in the article “The Same Urea”
Series of ARAVIA Professional products with urea
Urea for cosmetics is synthesized in the laboratory from carbon dioxide and ammonia. Its content in products may vary. But bigger doesn't mean better. At a concentration above 15%, urea has a keratolytic effect - causing exfoliation. And this is not at all suitable for facial skin that needs moisturizing. There are products with 30-50% urea content - these are already medical products that are prescribed by a dermatologist for the treatment of serious skin diseases.
The most optimal amount of urea in cosmetics for facial skin is 10%. In this concentration, urea performs two actions at once - it intensively moisturizes and has a keratolytic effect.
For skin this means:
- moisturizing and reliable retention of moisture in the stratum corneum for a long time;
- improvement of barrier functions;
- restoration and renewal;
- elimination of inflammation and irritation;
- increasing the amount of amino acids to maintain lipid balance;
- better access for other active components of the product.
The last point is especially important. Indeed, in addition to hydration, the skin needs protection from environmental influences, regeneration, reduction of wrinkles and slowing down the aging process, giving firmness and elasticity.
What is urea
Cosmetic urea has nothing to do with substances of organic origin.
Foot products contain the chemical compound carbonic acid, which is small, white, odorless crystals. On the packaging the substance is called urea or “urea”.
The first studies of the properties of the substance began in the 19th century, but it began to be added to cosmetics only recently. The main purpose of the component is hydration, but over time it was possible to identify other positive aspects of the application:
- Accelerates the healing of cracks and wounds;
- Forms an invisible film that can retain moisture;
- Improves penetration of other cream components into the deep layers of the epidermis;
- Repeats the properties of acid - it helps to destroy the bonds of the stratum corneum and simplifies its removal.
Restoration and mega-hydration: cream with urea and prebiotics Balance Moisture Cream
The main moisturizing component of the cream is urea at a concentration of 10%. It binds water molecules and holds them in the epidermis, preventing moisture loss. As a result, the skin becomes soft and smooth, and flaking and tightness go away.
The plant prebiotic Biolin enhances the protective function of the skin, thereby minimizing the impact of the external environment. By strengthening the skin's natural immunity, the permeability of the skin is reduced. This helps the skin fight stress and harmful pathogens.
The cream is packaged in a 150 ml round jar with a screw-on lid and protected by a metal membrane. Like all products in the urea series, the packaging has its own distinctive color - for Balance Moisture Cream it is green.
The texture is reminiscent of an airy soufflé, quite dense, but this is the first impression. When applied, the product is well and quickly absorbed by skin of any type, even oily and combination skin. It is enough to apply a little cream with urea to previously cleansed skin to nourish it with moisture for a long time.
Cream with urea is also suitable for use as a base for makeup - it is very convenient. With it, the skin will be moisturized all day, which means that makeup will apply and look much better.
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Where to look?
A substance that looks like salt grains and does not have a pungent odor was discovered more than two centuries ago. It turned out that it is what is responsible for moisturizing the skin and softening the dermis.
Each of us has at least once encountered biochemical tests, where the amount of urea is a separate health parameter.
Functions of urea in the human body:
- Anti-inflammatory – natural antiseptic.
- Hygroscopic – maintaining water balance. Promotes moisture retention in cells, reduces evaporation of liquid through pores.
- Conductive – metabolic processes in organs.
- Protective – against various viruses.
- Emollient – skin.
- Regenerating – wound healing.
Regeneration and super-hydration: cream with urea 10% and snail mucin Vital Moisture Cream
The product is designed for dry, dehydrated skin with signs of age-related changes. The urea in this cream acts on the same principle as in all products. It “lifts” moisture from the deep layers of the skin to saturate the upper layers. The skin seems to glow from the inside.
To combat age-related changes, snail mucin . It accelerates the synthesis of collagen and elastin. The skin regains its elasticity and firmness, wrinkles are smoothed out, facial tone is evened out, and inflammation is reduced.
The packaging of the cream differs from the Balance Moisture Cream only in color - you will see gold on it. Cream volume - 150 ml. The round jar with a lid is comfortable to hold in your hand, despite its rather impressive volume it is very light.
The texture of the cream is as delicate as that of a cream with prebiotics. It lies gently on the skin and instantly penetrates, intensely moisturizing and eliminating flaking. You can use this product as a final product in your daily evening care routine or in the morning. What’s nice is that you can apply makeup on it, because you don’t have to wait long for the urea cream to dry. You will notice an immediate improvement in the appearance and condition of your skin.
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Urea is a classic skin moisturizer
For its ability to draw moisture from the depths and move it to the upper, most vulnerable layers of the epidermis, thus improving the appearance, urea is considered the best natural moisturizer. It is considered a natural constituent of the body.
In addition, urea slows down cell aging. Helps exfoliate dead skin particles. Improves the microrelief of the epidermis. All this is used in cosmetology. Creams, masks and other products are made based on urea.
All of them are aimed at healing and maintaining the skin, as they have positive qualities:
- Anti-inflammatory effect. Creams usually contain a sufficient amount of preservatives, but due to the chemical composition of urea, products containing it have the least amount of them.
- The conductive property allows the skin to improve the perception of other beneficial components.
- An exfoliant is the ability to soften the skin, reducing the formation of flaking, allowing the product to make it velvety.
- Healing effect, mild analgesic. Restores the structure of the dermis, heals imperfections.
- The most valuable property of urea-based products is hydration. Thanks to them, the skin returns to its natural appearance.
Express hydration and freshness: urea mist 10% Moisture Mist
Of course, urea is responsible for moisturizing the skin in the mist. Its effect is enhanced by a plant analogue of natural moisturizing factor and D-panthenol . Their combination quickly restores a feeling of comfort to the skin, relieves tightness and gives the skin elasticity.
The mist is available in plastic packaging. The dispenser is protected by several caps: a large matte one and a small transparent one. When you press the dispenser, a fine cloud of moisture appears. The product is quickly absorbed and does not leave a sticky film.
The mist is suitable for all skin types. Apply it to your face after washing your face or during the day when you feel your skin needs refreshing - just spray the product on your face at a distance of 10-15 centimeters.
My skin urgently needs a refresh >>
Concentration
Urea is found in creams in varying concentrations. The aggressiveness of carbonic acid and its purpose depend on the percentage.
- An indicator from 1% to 10% indicates that you have a good moisturizing product. It will help prevent peeling and give the skin elasticity;
- A concentration of 10 to 20% turns the drug into a light keratolytic. Indicated for those prone to hyperkeratosis and corns;
- From 20% to 50% - a powerful keratolytic that can cope with advanced cases. It can only be used in a salon and by a professional. Self-use can lead to serious burns and destruction of healthy epidermis.
More information about hyperkeratosis:
Foot skin problems and what a pedicurist should do if they exist
Cream for very dry skin Emolium Cream
Volume – 75 ml. Price – 500 – 550 rub.
Contains shea and macadamia butter, 3% urea. Developed in collaboration with dermatologists. It has a light, non-greasy consistency and is well absorbed. It is even indicated for use in atopic and other dermatitis. Perfectly moisturizes very dry skin, the effect after application lasts for a long time.
Tips for use
You can buy granulated urea at any pharmacy, add it to a homemade moisturizer or mask, after dissolving the crystals in still mineral water.
Repeated scientific studies have shown that urea, which is part of cosmetics, is non-toxic. However, when applying cream with it on the face, extreme caution must be taken and protect the eyes to avoid irritation of the delicate eye membrane.
A cream containing urea is used not only for the care of the face, body, hands, but also for dry calluses on the feet. Dermatologists recommend using softening creams or foot balms with urea having a 12% concentration . This cream can gently soften dry calluses. Suitable for everyday use. In particularly advanced cases, cosmetologists advise using a cream with a higher urea content - 20% . The use of such a drug after two years from the date of its release is not allowed.
Contraindications
The compound is on the list of safe substances, but there are still some restrictions on its use.
- It is not recommended for use by people with oily skin prone to increased acne formation. In this case, it can lead to an increase in the number of acne.
- Very sensitive skin. If the first signs of irritation appear, you should immediately stop using cosmetics containing urea. Ulcers may appear.
- Children's age up to 3. Such drugs are strictly contraindicated for children.
- Infectious diseases.
Characteristics of the substance
Urea is a derivative of carbonic acid with a melting point of 132.7 degrees Celsius , highly soluble in water, methanol, ethanol. It was first discovered in urine, so it was called urea. It is the final product of protein breakdown in the human body, the body of most animals, and fungi. Its chemical properties resemble amides of carboxylic acids, but with more pronounced nucleophilic properties of the nitrogen atom.
Urea is widely used in agriculture as a feed additive and as a nitrogen fertilizer, as well as in the medical and cosmetic industries for the production of moisturizing creams.
The humectants included in such products have the unique ability to increase or retain water in the upper layer of the skin. Some of them are hygroscopic, meaning they can absorb water. These substances include urea, or urea in other words.
Who is not suitable for urea?
Due to the small size of the molecule, urea can penetrate quite deeply into tissues and stimulate the formation of a lipid layer. This increases the risk of getting a backlash with some abnormalities and diseases. There are contraindications :
- Acne (acne).
- Wounds, cuts.
- Inflammatory process.
- Irritation.
- Skin diseases.
