How a coach without a medical education taught lip augmentation to 1.5 thousand cosmetologists

All shades of gray

Even the strict self-isolation regime this spring did not become a reason to postpone beauty treatments until later. According to the calculations of pharmaceutical analysts of the GMP News publication, whose data was published by RBC, in total more than 550 thousand beauty injections were made worth 5.6 billion rubles.

The most popular procedures are smoothing out wrinkles, preventing age-related changes, face lifting using cosmetic threads and, of course, adding fillers that women love in the lip area. Many of them were carried out at home or in dubious institutions without a license or registration.

During 2.5 months of self-isolation, the number of illegal cosmetic injections increased almost 2.3 times compared to the same period last year.

But the question arises: if many clinics were closed, and the import of new drugs from other countries into Russia was temporarily suspended due to the COVID-19 pandemic, then where and how did the “beauty fairies” acquire all the equipment and drugs necessary for their work? And most importantly, who “stabbed”?

The same analysts from the RBC article assure: 64% of beauty industry workers stopped working during the coronavirus infection. The rest switched to remote work and began ordering medications and equipment necessary for working from home on their own. This confirms the noticeably increased demand for injectable cosmetic products from individuals.

Yesterday - a salesperson laid off due to the pandemic, today - an active cosmetologist.

Among the cunning professionals who decided to earn extra money during the “Covid” time, such a gray scheme was also used by those who suddenly woke up and realized: yesterday - a salesperson laid off due to the pandemic, today - an active cosmetologist. Distributors of “gray” drugs did not want bonuses for their new clients. They offered video tutorials, discounts, and certificates of completion of cosmetology courses as gifts.

Social networks were bursting with calls from scammers.
They offered me, a qualified doctor, to purchase illegal drugs without labeling for a ridiculous price. They wrote mainly on WhatsApp. I immediately blocked them. These people didn’t even need proof that I was a real cosmetologist. They don't need diplomas. The main thing is to buy it, and then learn cosmetology using video lessons. Mariyat Mukhina Cosmetologist, chief physician of the Origiteya clinic network

It turned out to be easy to find the scammers. It’s enough to type the hashtags #cosmetologist, #cheekbone enlargement, #profilejolie into the Instagram search engine, and here it is - the magic door to the world of illegal injections. The distributor named Daria avoids answering all questions about the availability of a certificate for drugs. Refuses to provide documents. And there are hundreds, if not thousands, of them online.

How long does the effect last?

The procedure itself takes no more than 30 minutes from the moment of preparation to leaving the clinic. The recovery period depends on the health characteristics, condition of the skin of the lips, reaction to the drug and the skills of the specialist. It is believed that the effect after correction lasts from 8 to 12 months, however, the duration of the acid’s action depends on compliance with the recommendations for care after the procedure and the quality of the drug. As a rule, after the first injection of hyaluronic acid, it is recommended to repeat the injection after 6-8 months, as this will significantly prolong the effect of the product and maintain the corrected volume or contour.

In the video - what effect can be achieved:

Contraindications for lip augmentation with hyaluronic acid

Despite the fact that hyaluronic injection is one of the safest and most effective methods of lip correction, there are several contraindications to the procedure:

Pregnancy and breastfeeding period;
Viral infections, blood clotting problems;
Serious dermatological diseases - psoriasis, eczema or atopic dermatitis.

If plastic surgery of several areas of the face is needed at once, the procedures are carried out at intervals of 2-3 weeks. This is necessary in order to monitor the body’s response to the drug, as well as reduce the risk of side effects.

Fake paradise

Cosmetologist Elena Sekirina clutches her head when she remembers how many naive clients suffered at the hands of unscrupulous workers. According to her, a real specialist must have a medical education with a genuine certificate of completion of training in the field of cosmetology. I ask what attracts women so much who turn for help not to specialized clinics to trusted doctors, but to a rented office in some solarium or in a one-room apartment in a residential area of Moscow. The answer turned out to be simple: cheap.

“The reaction to low-quality drugs can be immediate or appear after a few months in the form of swelling.
Now all drugs can be checked through Roszdravnadzor.” Elena Sekirina Cosmetologist, founder of the multidisciplinary medical center Sekirina Clinic

“Pay attention to the certificate and product labeling. A real doctor will open the package in front of you and show you a valid document. The numbers on the box must match the numbers on the certificate itself. If you are not meticulous, you will never know who produced the drugs, in what suitcase and from where they were smuggled to Russia, whether the storage conditions were observed, and most importantly, whether it is an original or a cheap fake.”

profillers.com

The expert assures: almost everything is faked now. Instead of a quality product, women are injected with industrial silicone, which can only be removed by going on the operating table and cutting the tissue.

Among the expensive lines, scammers prefer to counterfeit the American contour filler Juvederm, well-known on the market. Not everyone can afford this drug. In the capital's GMT clinic, the price list is, of course, scary. Correcting defects in appearance with a popular remedy can cost the fair half of humanity from 15 thousand to 26 thousand rubles. We bat our eyelashes and take off from the VIP page. Let's move on to those who brought the same 5.6 billion rubles to the industry - to private owners.

Lip care after the procedure

Compliance with all recommendations after the procedure allows you to avoid negative consequences, as well as increase the duration of action of the drug. Regardless of the means and technique of lip augmentation, the following conditions must be observed:

During the first week after the procedure, it is prohibited to use any decorative cosmetics, as lipstick or gloss that gets on the painful area can cause irritation and inflammation;
For two weeks after plastic surgery, it is not recommended to use cleansing cosmetics - scrubs or masks for lip peeling;
Mechanical impact on the lips, especially trauma or shock, should be avoided. You should also avoid kissing during the recovery period, as this can lead to uneven distribution of acid ;
For 1-2 weeks you need to avoid excessively hot, cold, spicy or salty foods, as this can increase swelling. Drinking alcohol is not recommended;
It is not advisable to use medications that thin the blood, or visit the dentist during the entire recovery period;
In the first few days, you need to limit facial expressions, try not to touch your lips with your hands or tongue;
It is recommended to avoid intense physical activity and visiting a solarium or sauna.

The video shows recommendations for lip care after the procedure:

To speed up healing and quickly harden the active substance after injections, it is advisable to apply cooling compresses, as well as nourishing masks based on milk or honey. Cosmetologists recommend massaging the lips, for example, with the back of a toothbrush. This simple procedure will slow down the absorption of acid and increase the duration of the effect. During the massage, all movements must be carried out with extreme caution, avoiding strong touches.

It is recommended to purchase a special lip care cream after the procedure. It contains natural oils and a small concentration of the same hyaluronic acid. Such products enhance regenerative processes and prolong the effect of the procedure. You can find out about herpes after lip tattoo by following the link.

Lip care cream can be seen with regular sour cream or fatty cottage cheese. They must be applied twice a day for 15-20 minutes, and then carefully removed with a napkin.

I am Angelina Jolie

Let's make our lips bigger.

The first thing that catches your eye when you scroll through the profiles of master cosmetologists on aggregator sites like YouDo is their smiling faces. Of course, a positive attitude always helps. The logic of a client who turns to a happy and confident-looking person for a service is quite understandable. But, visualizing the scene in which 25-year-old master Olesya somehow brings an injection needle to my face with 8 years of experience, I feel, to put it mildly, uneasy. We are recruiting.

youdo.com

Olesya's voice is cheerful. He readily talks about his experience in the field. She started in the treatment room as a nurse. Recently I have moved into the beauty industry. Helps women solve problems with appearance defects. Uses silicone. The asking price is from 3 thousand rubles. Sounds dangerous. The story of the surgical table immediately comes to mind.

Anna, 41 years old. Cosmetologist-psychologist. Prices for hyaluronic acid injections are ridiculous, starting from a thousand rubles. This doesn't happen even in fairy tales. In addition to helping women in the field of beauty and spiritual guidance, he resorts to alternative medicine, but most importantly, he saves marriages. In a word, she is a holy woman, but for some reason I don’t want to trust her face.

youdo.com

But Master Margarita’s questionnaire did not raise any questions at first. Quite the contrary. The woman is a certified specialist. Graduated from Russian National Research Medical University named after. N.I. Pirogova, majoring in general medicine, then followed the path of youth and beauty. Promises to provide all certificates and diplomas. Some of them were made public. And everything would be fine, but there is one thing. Margarita's selection of drugs is limited - cheap analogues of European and Western monopolists. The woman charges her client 7 thousand rubles for injections with Russian Reneall and South Korean Celosome. The latter, judging by the descriptions of dissatisfied customers, if administered incorrectly, leaves lumps and lumps in the tissues.

youdo.com

“Why do you need expensive filler?” - says cosmetologist from Avito Ekaterina. The woman is indignant when I ask her to choose a premium drug for herself. She says: it doesn’t work with elite drugs. It makes no sense, they say, the same Juvederm “disfigures” girls, leaving seals in the lips. Another thing is the South Korean filler Sardenya. Ekaterina promises to turn me into Angelina for only 5 thousand rubles.

Lip augmentation

The first attempts to correct appearance by introducing various drugs into the skin began about 70 years ago. Unfortunately, they did not always end successfully and were unsafe for health.

Modern cosmetology uses two groups of drugs for contouring:

Synthetic. Most often, they are based on silicone; many countries and experts have recognized these drugs as unsafe.
Biodegradable. The composition may include autologous fat, collagen, donor tissue, and hyaluronic acid. All have their advantages and disadvantages. For the last 20 years, preference has been given to fillers based on hyaluronic acid. They are recognized as the safest and most convenient to use. The effect of use can last up to 15 months. After this, hyaluronic acid leaves the body without harm. This allows a new correction to be made in a different way if the woman’s preferences have changed.

Lips begin to age quickly, after 25 years. This process is influenced by facial expressions, the activity of the masticatory muscles, as well as degenerative processes in tissues. The activity of the sebaceous glands decreases, lips become drier. Vertical wrinkles appear.

The volume of tissue decreases with age. Therefore, even those women who have naturally full lips will notice negative changes over time. Fillers successfully combat this transformation. Various lip augmentation techniques can not only change their shape, but also visually rejuvenate them.

TP Emelyan Braude

Cosmetologist Olesya M.'s eye begins to twitch when she remembers her former colleague. Having watched enough videos on Instagram of the controversial player from the world of aesthetic medicine, Emelyan Braude, she has difficulty finding decent expressions to describe the former courier, who imagines himself to be a beauty guru.

“This *** hates all women!” - this is how her story begins, and judging by the reviews of Braude’s colleagues and some of her clients, this seems to be true.

emelianbraude/Instagram

His account is hidden from prying eyes. His tough content, in which Braude shows how he and his students perform bloody operations without anesthesia, is not shown to everyone. First, he conducts strict face control and personally reviews all applications. If a woman gets the go-ahead, she finds herself in the world of “Jolie’s Angles,” “Fox Eyes,” “Devil’s Lips,” and “Apple Cheeks”—all these are the names of his author’s creations. He speaks very modestly about himself:

Fortunately, I am not a doctor, surgeon or cosmetologist - I never wanted to be any of them: in the world, almost everything is much more interesting.
Cosmetic surgery for me is an ominous oxymoron. If a person who has sworn an oath to protect health, like a mercenary, at the whim and for the money of a healthy person, is ready to cut something off for him, and with full awareness of the harm to health and global risks, what can we talk about? I don't consider them people. Just scoundrels and bandits. There is no “medical cosmetology” and “aesthetic surgery”, there are sh***s and loot. Emelyan Braude Entrepreneur

The fact of lack of medical education is not scary for him. Vice versa. Braude is proud that he is the only “nugget” in his field who achieved success by building an entire business empire. Underground contouring, numerous seminars and hundreds of students scattered throughout Russia are his key to huge profits. Instead of anesthesia - alcohol, instead of a sterile room - complete unsanitary conditions, instead of a white coat - a stale shirt and dirty sneakers.

emelianbraude/Instagram

The man brought one of his “victims” to a hospital bed. True, the very fact of what happened Emelyan denies in every possible way. But the victim’s lawyer describes the consequences in gloomy tones: a blackened tip of the nose and the orbit of the eyes, pain, burning and a feeling of sand in the eye, swelling of the eyelids and forehead skin. Moreover, after the injection, the patient was sent home without any recommendations.

There are dozens of such cases online. Some people are hurt by Braude himself, others by his students. For example, a 20-year-old cosmetologist under the pseudonym “Dr. Toma” is known for paying her patients thousands of dollars in compensation. One of them, according to the Snatch portal, received 500 thousand rubles from a would-be cosmetologist for her silence about the unsuccessful procedure.

He really was a courier.
And now he tears out all these girls’ lips and calls the technique “TP” (tight ***). I know that they wrote statements against him to law enforcement agencies several times, but Emelyan is not an easy person. It's not he who's ugly. His disciples are deforming him. And he himself will always come out unscathed, because in fact it is not he himself who cripples. Others do it for him. If there is any demand, it will be only from them. Olesya M. Cosmetologist

However, Emelyan himself often talks about his relationships with law enforcement officers in his interviews. In his opinion, he has not received any requests yet. True, the Ministry of Internal Affairs has a completely different opinion on this matter. The department has already begun an investigation into the blatant medical negligence of the false cosmetologist. Allegedly, one of the patients almost lost her vision after the manipulations.

The most terrible thing in our world of cosmetology is the Braude sect. I can give such a source - the Instagram group “The Truth about Cosmetologists”. There is even a video of Braude conducting trainings. And he teaches dropouts who, right on video, break needles in patients’ faces, using sadistic techniques. This man is sick, his psyche is broken. He needs to be treated, but he breaks the jaws of patients, which are then restored by surgeons.
Mariyat Mukhina Cosmetologist, chief physician of the Origiteya clinic network

Basic lip augmentation techniques

There are several ways to administer the drug into the skin. An experienced cosmetologist knows everything. Basic techniques for lip augmentation with hyaluronic acid:

Linear. Used to highlight Cupid's bow and outline. The procedure requires a minimum volume of the drug.
"Mona Lisa". The technique is used when the patient wants to lift the corners of her lips.
Fan for volume. The drug is administered without removing the needle, turning it at an acute angle. That is, the lines, like a fan, begin to diverge from one point.
Fan technique for corners. Used in cases where it is necessary to create support to resist gravitational ptosis.
Volume-linear. Used to create plump lips. The drug is administered in fairly large volumes.
Drip. Suitable for lifting the upper lip. Increases the volume in its central part.
Parisian lip augmentation technique. Injections are carried out vertically. Thanks to this, the filler gets into the central part. The lips turn out childishly swollen, without unnecessary vulgarity.
Net. The filler is injected at right angles, along lines located close to each other. This technique allows you to make your lips look firmer and fuller.

How to save face?

Lawyers assure: cheap cosmetology from unverified specialists, be it representatives of the Braude sect or any other specialist from the forum, is the most dangerous type of service. Clients mutilate themselves to save money.

In the event of a negative outcome, when harm to health is caused, it is almost impossible to prove the fact of the provision of services, because many specialists ask to pay exclusively in cash. No check, much less a receipt. According to experts, if you feel something is wrong, then you should ask law enforcement agencies to conduct an inspection to find out whether the activities of a certain employee from the beauty industry are even legal.

If irreparable harm has been caused to your health, then you can go to court only with the presentation of evidence (transfers of funds from the card, screenshots of correspondence, where time and place appear), and you will also need to set out the circumstances of the provision of services in order to justify the discrepancy in quality and prove the presence of harmful consequences for the body.

But the simplest thing is not to lead to sin. Research your chosen specialist in advance. The Internet and checking the labeling of drugs from the potentially “gray” segment on the Roszdravnadzor website will help with this. And pay more attention to reviews. After all, among several positive purchased texts, there is always one real one.

Parisian technique

Most of the legendary cosmetic brands were created in France. This country embodies beauty, sophisticated style and luxury. It is not surprising that the most common lip augmentation technique comes from this magnificent country.

The method was developed by Parisian cosmetologists. They were the first to inject minimal doses of the drug into the upper lip, which allowed it to turn out slightly. The procedure will not turn the patient into a vamp. The lips will acquire a more innocent O-shape and will be completely devoid of vulgarity.

The popularity of this technique is explained by the fact that it allows you to achieve the most natural appearance. A woman does not risk becoming the owner of a “duck mouth” after the procedure is completed. Her lips will look the same as those of a young Brigitte Bardot or Michelle Mercier.

The French lip augmentation technique, in addition to the natural look, has a number of advantages:

the procedure does not take much time;
most often only the upper lip is chipped, which ensures minimal intervention;
low price;
a small amount of the drug in the tissues does not cause discomfort in the patient.

Minimal doses of filler, entering the tissue, fill the free space. The drug does not stretch or injure the skin of the lips. The technique has earned the trust of patients and cosmetologists.

Cost of the procedure

The cost of the lip augmentation procedure depends on the professionalism of the specialist and the chosen drug. And also from the region. The highest price was recorded in St. Petersburg, it amounted to 30 thousand rubles.

In Moscow you can find a specialist who will carry out the procedure for 12 thousand. There are a huge number of beauty salons in the capital offering their services. It's quite difficult to choose the best one. The trial and error method is not suitable in this situation. Every woman wants to get good results from lip augmentation procedure. The sambuca technique has become quite popular in Moscow. Performed only in the beauty studio of the same name Dr. Sambuca. You can get sensual lips here with Juviderm Volift. The cost of the procedure using one 1 ml syringe will be 19 thousand rubles.

On the Internet you can find advertisements from cosmetologists who offer to inject fillers at home. The cost of services is really attractive - only 5 thousand rubles. Unfortunately, in such conditions, specialists with insufficient qualifications often work. And sometimes without medical education. To reduce the cost of the procedure, low-quality drugs are used. So saving on your health and appearance is very dangerous.