The most popular question in modern cosmetology that concerns any woman is how to choose a high-quality, and most importantly, effective peeling for the face without compromising health and aesthetics. There is no universal answer because the best peels are a personal and controversial concept. What professional procedures are there, and what skin types they are suitable for.
Contraindications for peeling
Before embarking on the dilemma of which peel to choose, you need to study the limitations in the composition and methods of its application. All exfoliating procedures have some contraindications:
- any infectious diseases in acute form;
- allergic reaction to components;
- period of pregnancy and lactation;
- diseases of the cardiovascular system;
- liver and kidney problems;
- the presence of inflammatory processes;
- for cancer and asthma;
- the presence of a fresh tan;
- in case of violation of the integrity of the skin - wounds, abrasions, cuts, burns;
- diabetes;
- the presence of a large number of moles, warts, papillomas.
Professional facial peels should be used with caution in case of increased sensitivity of the skin and vascular network.
Precautionary measures
Fruit peels are not recommended for active inflammation. If you have fresh acne, it is better to prefer salicylic, retinoic or Jessner.
All peels are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding, or during the acute stage of herpes. If you have kidney or liver failure, diabetes, or problems with the thyroid gland, you should consult a specialized doctor before the procedure.
After the procedure, be sure to follow the rules of hygiene: wash makeup brushes, use disposable towels, wipe your mobile phone with alcohol, change your pillowcase to prevent infection on the renewed skin.
Superficial peeling
The first method refers to basic light procedures and qualifies as gentle peeling.
It is carried out for enlarged pores and acne, excessively oily skin, as well as minor imperfections of the integument. Expert opinion
Anastasia Zaslavskaya
Dermatologist, cosmetologist
Superficial facial peeling is recommended for early ages and is designed to eliminate superficial skin problems, and is also used as a preventive measure for aging. Therefore, light facial peeling is indispensable for dry and sensitive skin, but has weak dynamics in the fight against age-related changes.
There are professional facial peels in the salon, the effect of which is comparable to that of mid-penetration, and in terms of the method of action it is classified as a superficial procedure - this is retinoic peeling.
How does the procedure work?
Protocol:
- Cleansing with foam selected according to skin type. After makeup removal, the composition is washed off with water.
- The application of hydrogel, the formula of which contains active elements, has a healing effect on the skin.
- Treatment with peeling composition, absorption time from 7 to 12 minutes. A neutralizer is applied to regulate the effects of the ingredients.
- The product is washed off with cold water, and excess moisture is removed with a sponge.
- At the next stage, a soothing mask with a regenerating effect is used.
- Afterwards, apply a cream selected according to your skin type.
Medium peeling
Professional medium facial peels are used in the presence of old scars, cicatrices, wrinkles, stretch marks and folds, and lightening of age spots. Experts recommend carrying out a similar procedure starting at age 35.
This method of exposure is accompanied by chemical burns of varying severity depending on the acid base. Its depth depends on the concentration and type of acid, as well as personal characteristics of the skin. Professionals select facial peels where the acid components exceed 30%. Independent use of the product is based on the choice of a chemical preparation with an acid content of no more than 10%.
But if in a beauty salon burn injuries to the skin are under strict control, then at home a facial procedure should involve the use of professional products, a clear sequence of instructions, and competent before and after peeling care.
Expert opinion
Anastasia Zaslavskaya
Dermatologist, cosmetologist
Professional chemical peels for the face of domestic production are specially designed for self-use. The manufacturer NEW LINE has released cranberry, it is for mature skin of any type, which in addition to cranberry contains 30% glycolic acid in combination with lactic and citric acids.
The rating of acid peels for the face of the American brand First Aid Beauty opens with a scrub designed for skin suffering from frequent inflammation. It contains wax granules and carbon, which are supposed to draw out dirt. Its distinctive feature remains the physical effect simultaneously with the chemical one, since the product contains lactic and salicylic acids.
Skin care rules after exfoliation
As practice shows, 85% of unpleasant consequences after peeling on problem skin occur due to improper rehabilitation care.
For problem skin, it is always necessary to select creams and serums marked non-comedogenic (do not clog pores). But not all manufacturers care about labeling their products.
Important! Comedogenic components are contraindicated for women with acne, as they can aggravate the situation. Undesirable ingredients: talc, lanolin, alcohol denatured alcohol, oils (castor, cocoa, coconut, wheat germ, peanut, sunflower, soybean), butyl stearate, caprylic acid.
The skin, cleansed, renewed, thinned after peeling, absorbs all care products well. It is important to double-check all household cosmetics to avoid causing acne relapse.
The peeling product itself may contain risky ingredients. The exposure time of the product on the skin is too short for the pores to become clogged.
After glycolic and “yellow” peeling, cosmetologists can prescribe a cream with antibiotics (erythromycin, synthomycin, clindamycin) for an anti-inflammatory effect.
To speed up skin renewal, it is advisable to use ointments or mousses with panthenol, hyaluronic serums, and nourishing creams with safe oils.
You need to choose sun protection products especially carefully, preferably with physical or mineral SPF filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide). UV protection is a mandatory step in skin care after peeling.
Deep peeling
The best facial peeling for ladies with mature skin allows you to cope with skin problems after 50 years. Having a deep peel in a salon means forgetting about problems for several years.
The deep type of procedure is carried out using substances such as phenol or a high concentration of trichloroacetic acid solution. However, phenol is a very toxic substance, even in some cases it can cause heart failure.
Blemish & Age Defense, SkinCeuticals
Price: 5,500 rubles
This serum from the professional cosmetic series is designed for special care for problem skin. The product actively fights inflammatory acne, removes its consequences, and controls sebum production. Dioic acid relieves inflammation and has an antimicrobial effect, destroying pathogens that lead to acne. “Salicyl” opens and gently cleanses pores, and lemon and glycolic skin “remove” and exfoliate the stratum corneum of the skin.
Pros:
- reduces skin oiliness;
- absorbs instantly;
- removes acne well;
- the skin acquires a fresh, even tone;
- The texture of the skin is noticeably improved, the pores are narrowed;
- suitable for women and men;
- can be used from 25 years of age;
- convenient pipette dispenser;
- economical consumption.
Minuses:
- high price.
Experts advise using this facial peeling as preparation for a deep cleansing salon procedure, as well as 2 weeks after it. When using the serum, be sure to protect your skin with sunscreen.
Russian industry
Professional peelings of domestic production specialize in producing a whole series of inexpensive products with chemical acids for all skin types, cold hydrogenation gels, and enzyme preparations.
The top 10 facial peels for home use from Russian brands are presented by Medical Collagene 3D. The products were developed with the participation of scientists from the Research Center of the Moscow Medical Academy named after. THEM. Sechenov.
- Enzyme “Anti-acne” for problem skin can eliminate excess shine, cleanse pores, even out complexion, has an anti-inflammatory effect, moisturizes and nourishes, preventing the appearance of new inflammatory formations.
- Light glycolic peeling for home use with chitosan is characterized by gentle removal of dead skin cells. It reduces fine wrinkles, tightens and cleanses pores.
- For normal and combination skin, use an enzyme facial peeling product that gets rid of blackheads and stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastane.
- “SEBO NORM” of the same brand will help you cope with oily skin at home, providing comprehensive care: it helps eliminate toxins, reduces the secretion of the sebaceous glands.
- For problematic skin, it is recommended to use an effective peeling with collagenase, which removes toxins and saturates with microelements.
- A highly effective dual-action formula is present in the micro-peel for the face, which contains sea minerals, macadamia oil, shea butter, and also combines the properties of mechanical and biological action.
- In the fight against pigmentation and freckles, Natural Peel with papain and shiso oil is recognized as the best domestic professional peeling.
- The delicate enzymatic complex Medical Collagene 3D allows you to carry out the cleaning procedure all year round.
- Enzyme with papa and grape seed extract helps strengthen the walls of blood vessels, brightens, evens out skin tone.
- Professional peeling gel “EASY PEEL 5%” helps retain moisture, maintaining the thickness and structure of the stratum corneum.
Peels from the French laboratory Renophase stand apart in the global industry. They do not require pre-peeling preparation or rehabilitation period.
Characteristics of oily and problem skin
Those with oily skin are more likely than others to face the problem of acne and acne. Excess sebum in the pores is a favorable environment for Propionibacterium acnes bacteria. As they multiply, they provoke an inflammatory process, and acne forms.
Acne dermatosis is a complex polymorphic, multifactorial disease of the sebaceous glands. Today, only the hormonal theory of acne development has been proven.
Mechanism of acne formation:
- Receptors in the dermis react to excess testosterone synthesis and encourage the sebaceous glands to produce sebum.
- If the keratinization process proceeds normally, then excess sebum simply comes out to the surface of the epidermis.
- If the stratum corneum is not regularly exfoliated, then the remaining fat gets stuck in the pores, mixing with dying corneocytes, forming sebaceous plugs or comedones.
- The blocked ducts of the sebaceous glands colonize bacteria, causing inflammation and the formation of a purulent element.
The main cause of acne is endocrine pathology - hyperandrogyny. But modern medical science does not operate with effective methods for correcting hormonal imbalance (only oral contraceptives and diet). Therefore, the most expressive effect is provided by external treatment aimed at speeding up exfoliation.
Peels prevent clogging of pores, free the ducts of the sebaceous glands from excess corneocytes and dissolve existing comedones. Acids also provide an antibacterial and disinfecting effect, even out skin tone and texture by removing a layer of old cells.
Reviews
Considering the statistics and reviews of the female half of the population, the most popular facial peels remain superficial ones, which are accompanied by painless sensations, have a short recovery period and are considered budget procedures. If you focus on Moscow, the skin cleansing process is estimated at 3000–6000.
According to women's reviews, deep facial peeling in the salon can be compared with the result after surgery - plastic surgery for rejuvenation.
And the new laser peeling in current cosmetology, according to clients, on the contrary, is ineffective in the fight against wrinkles and pigmentation. After the swelling disappears, the recovery period of the fold ends and the dark formations take their original place.
Tips from cosmetologists
- The first procedure is recommended to be carried out with the participation of a professional master. The correct algorithm for applying the peeling product, the sequence of actions and time of use will be strictly regulated and will serve as a starting point for further use at home.
- It is necessary to select a peeling for the face not only based on the personal characteristics of the skin, the type of acid, its percentage, but also the form of release of the product. It can be a gel, cream or liquid composition. The use of peeling for home use is based on a natural rule - the denser the structure of the applied substance, the softer its effect. Therefore, the liquid form of release allows you to penetrate deeper into the layers of the epidermis, but it becomes more difficult to control its movements.
- Peeling products for home use should be based on natural, beneficial elements that will protect the skin from additional aggressive external influences.
Numerous reviews and practice have shown that professional peelings at home and in the salon can be a fairly effective procedure only if the composition is selected correctly, taking into account the personal characteristics of the skin.
Rating
Which one is better to choose?
The need to regularly remove dead skin particles is due to the natural process of cell death. Exfoliation, or cleansing of the surface layer - the epidermis, occurs monthly. Under the damaged “dead” layer lies new, fresh skin that can fully absorb oxygen and moisture. The procedure normalizes metabolic processes and nutrition of the skin, which significantly increases their protection from external negative influences.
Many people mistakenly believe that peeling is an exclusively rejuvenating procedure. However, different types and features of the procedure are based on indications for use.
It is impossible to make an unambiguous and generalized choice for everyone, because all situations are individual. If a person only wants to refresh the skin color, even light exfoliation will help. But for some this will not be enough, and the procedure will be ineffective.
Some options in cosmetology are considered universal (in particular, light peeling), while experts consider the deep type to be more effective. But such a procedure requires the use of anesthesia and is performed only on the recommendation of a dermatologist or cosmetologist.
The cosmetics industry provides consumers with a colossal choice of both the products themselves and the most popular methods of using them. That is why you need to approach the issue of peeling with all responsibility, so as not to harm the skin. Its type, individual characteristics and existing contraindications should be taken into account.
