Retinol, retinoids. Cosmetic care for correcting age-related skin changes


From this article you will learn:
  • how effective is retinol for the face,
  • what forms of retinol are there,
  • effective concentrations, timing of application.

The article was written by a specialist with higher medical education.

Retinol is one of the most effective ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics, which helps even out skin tone and texture, increase skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol is just one of many forms of vitamin A, which also include retinoic acid and retinaldehyde, as well as the so-called retinol esters (for example, retinol palmitate or retinol acetate).

Below you will see that real pure retinol and retinol esters are completely different in effectiveness forms of vitamin A. And it is preferable that retinol for facial skin be present in cosmetic products in the form of pure retinol, and not its esters. And below we will tell you why this is so important and how it affects the effectiveness of correcting age-related skin changes.

The best companies producing retinol products are:

The author of this article has a medical education and problem skin, so I know from personal experience all the nuances of using products with retinol, and which of them really work. In the photo above are the best products with retinol (one of the many that I have tried), which are produced by SkinCeuticals (USA) and ZO® Skin Health (USA). And these companies truly produce the most effective products with pure retinol - compared to many other products I have tried.

In this article we will talk about the criteria for choosing retinol products for the face so that they are truly effective. And of course, the main criteria will be the choice of the correct form of retinol, as well as its correct concentration. We will also talk about the duration of courses for correcting age-related changes using cosmetics with retinol, and when you can notice the first visible results.

Beneficial properties of retinol

Retinoids, which include retinol acetate, interact with receptors in the epidermis and dermis, so the benefits of retinol in cosmetology are enormous:

  • Stimulates the renewal of epidermal cells. That is why, at the first time of use, a person feels that the skin becomes drier, tighter, and flaky. After some time, her condition stabilizes as the keratinized cells fall off;
  • Normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands, after which the pores narrow and inflammation disappears;
  • Activates fibroblasts - cells that produce collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid. This allows you to get rid of excessive dryness, make wrinkles less pronounced, and increase the density of the dermis;
  • Acts as an antioxidant: protects cells from the negative effects of UV rays, relieves itching, redness, cleanses the epidermis of harmful accumulations (waste, toxins);
  • Stimulates blood microcirculation, metabolic processes, cell nutrition;
  • Increases the strength and elasticity of vascular walls. Helps defeat rosacea (vascular network);
  • Lightens pigment spots, evens out tone.

Retinol peeling cleanses pores of impurities and sebum, renewing the upper layers. With regular use, the product eliminates acne, which appears due to the accumulation of dead cells and hardened secretions of the sebaceous glands.

Retinol release form

Before using retinol acetate, you need to find out in what form it is available:

  • Oil solution for internal use. The concentration of the main component is different - 3.44% and 8.6%. It is drunk and also used for external use;
  • Soft gelatin capsules filled with an oily yellow liquid. They are taken orally or punctured and the solution is added to ready-made creams or added to home remedies;
  • Solution for injections. Its direct purpose is intramuscular injections, but the liquid is often used to prepare masks.

It is important to remember that the solution cannot be used in its pure form, as the likelihood of adverse reactions increases. To soften the aggressive effect of the concentrated vitamin, you need to combine it with other ingredients.

Medical Research Data

The number of officially registered studies on the use of external retinoids is enormous. Below are the conclusions obtained from a number of them:

  1. The concentration of retinoids in cosmetic preparations is not so high; moreover, they are practically not absorbed into the blood to provide a systemic effect.
  2. Over the past 30 years, no systemic side effects have been reported with long-term use of topical retinoids.
  3. External use of retinoids has an exclusively local effect, without penetrating to the level of the entire body.

Contraindications

The use of products with retinol acetate is prohibited in the following cases:

  • Hypersensitivity to various forms of vitamin A;
  • Damaged lipid barrier (water-fat layer that protects the dermis from moisture loss);
  • Photodamage to the skin (sunburn, photoallergic reactions, etc.);
  • Very sensitive skin that is prone to redness, tingling, irritation;
  • Open wounds with purulent contents.

Pregnant and lactating women can use vitamin A only after a doctor's approval. This is due to the fact that it can affect cellular structures containing DNA, disrupt the development of the fetus, and cause allergies in the infant.

You should be wary of the drainage effect of retinol acetate on the bile ducts or liver. If these organs are diseased, it is better to avoid products containing this component.

It is important to follow the dosage of the substance, otherwise severe itching, peeling, nausea, vomiting, headache, and hepatomegaly (enlarged liver) will occur. Cosmetologists advise starting with a dosage of 0.1 – 0.4%.

Before first use, it is recommended to conduct an allergy test. To do this, apply a small amount of the product to the inside of the wrist or elbow and leave for 30 minutes. If allergies do not appear, then the cream or mask can be used according to the instructions.

How to Apply Retinoic Yellow Peel

The procedure begins with the doctor placing the contents of the tube (a mask with a 5-10% concentration of retinoic acid) into a bowl. Next, he evenly covers the patient's face with the mixed mass. No area should be skipped, even the lower and upper areas of the eyelids (along the eyelash edge). The only things that are not peeled are eyelashes and eyebrows. After about 10-25 minutes, the mask will harden on the face in the form of a film. After the required amount of time, which was agreed upon in consultation with a doctor, the mass is removed, the face is thoroughly washed, and then a special sunscreen substance is applied.

In most cases, a retino yellow peel course consists of four procedures. The order of their implementation is as follows: two weeks should pass after the first session, one month after the second and all subsequent ones. Thus, the course lasts two and a half months from the moment of the first peeling. And in total it turns out to be three months, if you take into account the two-week preparatory period. After completing the course, this type of peeling can be repeated every three months to maintain skin condition.

Read material on the topic: Plasmolifting of the face - a breakthrough in domestic cosmetology

Cosmetics with retinol


Dermatologists and cosmetologists advise using professional products with a balanced formula that have passed dermatological control for facial care.
Effective creams based on retinol acetate:

  • Multiactive cream Blue Therapy Multi Defender SPF 25 provides protection against UV rays, makes wrinkles and age spots less noticeable, and improves skin tone;
  • Night care cream with retinol Retinol 0.3, which, in addition to the main component, contains soybean oil, alfalfa extract, and chamomile. Helps cope with hyperpigmentation, acne, expression lines;
  • Revitalift lifting treatment from L'Oréal accelerates the synthesis of elastin, making its fibers stronger and the skin elastic. The cream is used at night so that the skin renews itself faster and wrinkles are smoothed out;
  • “Ultra Lifting” from Garnier smooths out wrinkles and increases the elasticity of the dermis. The anti-aging complex contains vitamin A, ginger extract, cherry seed oil;
  • Redermic R from La Roche-Posay corrects wrinkles of varying depths and lightens age spots. Contains a high concentration of vitamin A.

For skin care, budget products with retinol are used, for example, retinoic ointment, Aevit, Retinol + Magnesium cream from Belit. They help cope with acne, hyperpigmentation, renew the skin, and tighten it.

What should be the care after retinoic yellow peeling?

The most important thing for the skin after any chemical procedure is to recover quickly and without consequences. The post-peeling period is a serious time that requires a more careful attitude towards the face and the fulfillment of certain requirements. For the first two weeks, you should not use cosmetics containing retinoids. It is also best to avoid any other treatments, chemical or cosmetic, such as hair coloring or perming.

You can take care of the skin when swelling, various irritations or painful symptoms appear with the help of anti-inflammatory and regenerating drugs, such as a special balm consisting of borage and shea butters, copper peptides, panthenol, fireweed extract, licorice and horse chestnut. This remedy has a calming effect. As a result, the skin quickly returns to its normal state. A special balm is recommended to be used together with aerosols, the basis of which is deuterium (heavy) water, which has strong antibacterial and protective properties.

Two days after peeling, you can start using your usual cleansers. Only they should not contain harsh surfactants, and their base should consist of either water or gel, that is, be fat-free.

Three to four days after the retinoic yellow peeling procedure, characteristic peeling appears on the face. In order for the epidermis to quickly get rid of unnecessary layers, cosmetologists advise applying a mask rich in lactic acid and cranberry enzymes. It has antioxidant, antihistamine and antiviral properties, thanks to which flaky skin returns to its normal state much faster.

Homemade face masks with retinol acetate

Not all women know how to use retinol acetate on their facial skin in order for the product to be beneficial. This component is effective, but capricious, and can cause negative reactions. To avoid this, you need to follow the recommendations of professionals:

  • The dosage and form of vitamin A products should be selected by a cosmetologist;
  • Apply products with retinol acetate to your face before bed or during the autumn-winter season when the sun is not active. If you use it during the day, then before going outside, treat your skin with cream with SPF protection (30 - 50);
  • The use of retinol acetate should be regular: when fighting acne or age spots - 2 times a week for 3 months, for the prevention and correction of wrinkles - twice a week on an ongoing basis;
  • To prevent age-related changes, use masks with a vitamin A concentration of 0.1%, and to combat wrinkles - from 0.4 to 1%;
  • For 30 ml of base, use 2 ml of 3.4% concentrate or 1 ml of 8.6% solution;
  • Apply the mask to steamed, cleansed but dry skin; if it is wet, the substance will quickly be absorbed, which can lead to irritation;
  • Combine the solution with moisturizing ingredients that will soften the aggressive effect of the main component;
  • Prepare a fresh product each time; you should not store it, since vitamin A quickly oxidizes in air or under the influence of the sun;
  • After removing the mask, lubricate your face with a cream with a moisturizing effect;
  • Repeat the procedure once a week.

To prepare masks with vitamin A, use a solution or capsules. Home remedies can help get rid of dryness, inflammation, acne, and wrinkles. The composition is different for different skin types.

Rejuvenating

At home, you can prepare an effective remedy that will slow down age-related changes or correct them:

  • Mix 1 tsp in a glass container. burdock oil, sweet almond oil, 1 drop of retinol acetate 8.6%;
  • Add 5 g of liquid honey, stir;
  • Treat your face, and after half an hour, rinse with warm water.

This remedy is suitable for women over 30 years of age.

For oily skin

If there is excess sebum, a mixture of vitamin A and fermented milk product will help:

  • Combine 30 ml of kefir (up to 20%) or whey with 1 ml of concentrate 8.6%;
  • Soak a clean napkin in the liquid;
  • Place it on your skin for 30 minutes;
  • Then wash or wipe your face with herbal infusion.

This mask will remove excess fat, eliminate irritation, inflammation, and normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands. It has a rejuvenating and brightening effect.

Moisturizing

For dry skin, prepare a mask according to this recipe:

  • Mix 1 tbsp. l. cottage cheese and olive oil;
  • Add 3 – 5 drops of 8.6% solution to the mixture;
  • Distribute on your face, leave for half an hour, then wash.

The skin becomes softer, brightens, the cells are saturated with moisture, and the contour is tightened.

For dry skin

For a constant feeling of tightness and flaking, this remedy will help:

  • Pour 1 tbsp. l. vegetable oil of your choice (olive, jojoba, wheat germ) in a glass or ceramic bowl;
  • Puncture the retinol capsule and add to the oil;
  • Lubricate your face, and when the solution is absorbed, blot the residue with a paper napkin.

This mask will provide hydration and start the process of cell renewal.

For acne

Owners of combination problem skin find it difficult to choose a product that simultaneously eliminates rashes and oily shine, but does not dry it out. The following mask has just such an effect:

  • Dilute white or blue clay with still mineral water to a cream consistency;
  • Add 1 capsule of vitamin A to the mixture, stir;
  • Leave on face for 25 minutes, rinse.

With regular use, inflammation is reduced, acne becomes less noticeable, and the skin becomes more elastic.

Anti-inflammatory

Rash and skin irritation can be eliminated with the following mask:

  • Add to 1 tbsp. l. light baby cream 1 tsp. aloe and agave juice, mix;
  • Add 3 drops of concentrate;
  • Lubricate your face, massage, and rinse off after 15 minutes.

With regular use, the inflammatory process will disappear, and the skin will rejuvenate.

How retinoic yellow peeling is done in beauty salons

The stages of the procedure itself are as follows:

1.

Preparation period;

2

. Applying a special solution to the face, which contains salicylic and glycolic acids;

3.

Applying the retinoic gel itself. It stays on the skin for a certain time, which depends on two indicators: the degree of acid concentration in the substance and the result desired by the client. Thus, peeling can remain on the skin from 15 minutes to 12 hours;

4.

If the procedure lasts only a short time, the retinoic gel is removed from the face in the beauty salon itself. If the peeling needs to be kept on the skin for several hours, then the client is sent home, and after the required period of time he thoroughly washes his face on his own;

It is worth noting that in this situation, prolonged exposure of the retinoic gel to the epidermis causes fewer problems during the rehabilitation period. The composition for long-term peeling has a lower concentration, which promotes gentle interaction with the skin and less possibility of damage;

5

. Caring care during the recovery period.

Read material on the topic: How to care for facial skin: home care and salon treatments

Reviews of retinol acetate



Opinions about retinol acetate in masks are contradictory: some women are satisfied with the effect of budget funds, others claim that they do not bring any effect, and still others claim that the substance caused allergies. But most comments say that vitamin A masks help cope with almost all problems when used correctly.

Reviews:

Svetlana, 33 years old:

I experienced the effect of a mask with retinol, burdock and almond oil. I liked the effect after two uses: the skin looked fresher and cleaner. I used it 2 times a week for a month. It seems to me that the wrinkles have really become less noticeable. I will continue to use it.

Ekaterina, 40 years old:

Until the age of 35, I suffered from problem skin: rash, peeling in places, a feeling of tightness. A mask with vitamin A and blue clay helped me solve the problem. After the first use, the face became lighter, cleaner, softer, the itching and burning sensation disappeared. Later I supplemented the care with Redermic R cream with retinol. After this, the contour tightened and the wrinkles became less noticeable.

Alena, 48 years old:

I chose an oil mask with retinol and honey for my sensitive skin. From time to time I use different oils in the composition. I also add vitamins to creams. After a month of use, my friends notice that I look younger and fresher.

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