Facial peeling with fruit acids: a cosmetologist spoke about the features of the procedure and its effects

Problematic facial skin is skin with acne ; let’s immediately define the problem using medical terminology, because Many people consider their skin to be “problematic” and this is not always associated with the presence of rashes.

Not all experts recommend peelings for acne: some categorically do not perform them, limiting themselves only to mechanical cleansing. The other part, on the contrary, considers this a direct indication for peeling, but then faces an exacerbation of rashes. Who is right and who is wrong? And what kind of peeling is necessary and can be performed for problem skin?

We will give you brief but clear instructions on which peeling is best for problematic facial skin.

When peeling should not be done

Indeed, there are clinical skin conditions when chemical peeling is contraindicated and can provoke an exacerbation of the process and the appearance of new inflammatory elements, or penetrate into the deeper layers and cause a chemical burn.

Contraindications include:

  1. High activity of the process of rash appearance

Peeling is a stimulating procedure and its implementation can provoke the appearance of new elements on the skin.

  1. Acne 3 – 4 degrees of severity (cysts, drainage elements, conglobate acne)

Rashes affecting the middle and deep layers of the skin, plus, as a rule, a violation of the skin barrier function are contraindications for chemical peeling.

  1. The presence of violations of the integrity of the skin (for example, after mechanical cleaning or self-squeezing)

Acids will easily penetrate into the deep layers of the skin, causing a chemical burn, accompanied by a burning sensation during the procedure and subsequent peeling of the skin.

In all other cases, chemical peeling is indicated as a therapeutic measure.

However, there is no universal solution for everyone. It is necessary to select the composition individually, depending on the clinical manifestations.

Indications

According to Olga Degtyareva, chemical peeling with acids is a universal procedure that is suitable for any skin, young and old. And in each case it will help in solving current problems.

In adolescence, it will help get rid of seborrhea - increased oiliness, give the face a matte appearance, reduce rashes and smooth out the consequences of post-acne. During the procedure, the acid dissolves the contents of the pores - “dark spots” on the face, making the skin look well-groomed and less bothered by the appearance of imperfections.

In adulthood, the procedure improves the condition of the skin, promotes its renewal and helps get rid of small expression wrinkles. She cannot cope with large ones, but even after a single procedure there is a pronounced lifting effect.

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“Superficial chemical peeling can be considered as a procedure on the eve of a release,” Olga Degtyareva clarifies. — After exposure to acids, the skin instantly tightens, and the very next day the lifting effect is visible to the naked eye. Therefore, if you want to prepare for an event and look especially good, you can do a superficial fruit peel the day before and instantly transform your skin.”

How to choose a chemical peel for problem skin

So in what cases is chemical peeling indicated for problem skin:

  • Mild to moderately severe forms of acne
  • Inactive process of appearance of new rashes
  • Performed at least once every 2 weeks

Let's look at the rules for selecting peels for problem skin using the example of specific peels from the DermaQuest line of enriched peels.


Features of the procedure

Chemical peeling with acids does not require prior preparation. The procedure takes 30-40 minutes and is carried out according to the following protocol:

  • cleansing the face and neck;
  • application of the active substance;
  • keeping the composition for 2-10 minutes;
  • applying a neutralizer that stops the peeling;
  • removal of composition;
  • applying post-peeling cream.

The advantage of the procedure is its comfort. A slight tingling sensation may be felt, which goes away after applying the neutralizer. In case of increased sensitivity, the operating time of the composition is reduced. After the procedure, slight redness is possible, which quickly disappears.

There are practically no contraindications to the procedure.

“The main thing is that there are no inflammations or herpes on the skin,” Olga Degtyareva clarifies. — We do not perform the procedure if the patient has signs of a cold or has an elevated body temperature. And it is very important that your skin does not tan.”

Despite the fact that facial peeling with fruit acids is carried out to reduce hyperpigmentation, it cannot be done on tanned skin. This can lead to even more pigmentation and the appearance of numerous dark spots on the face. If the skin is tanned, it needs to be given time to recover. Therefore, cosmetologists recommend starting the fight against excessive tanning not at the end of summer, but a couple of months after the end of the active sun season.

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What are enriched peelings?

Enriched DermaQuest peelings are non-seasonal and atraumatic peelings that are comparable in effectiveness to medium peels.

How enriched peels work:

Enriched peels contain low concentrations of AHAs , which work for gentle exfoliation and elimination of hyperkeratosis, and also act as enhancers - they form channels for deep penetration of the active substances included in the enriched peeling.

Active substances carried deep into the skin : peptides, plant stem cells, brightening ingredients, sebum-regulating, antioxidants, moisturizing.

Benefits of enriched peelings:

Enriched peelings are an opportunity to individually select a peeling to solve a specific problem (age-related changes, problematic skin, pigmentation, etc.) for a specific skin type (dry, oily, sensitive, irritated).

  • Absolutely safe to use; they do not cause peeling, skin irritation or post-peeling hyperpigmentation.
  • Maximum efficiency with minimal trauma.

Advantages and disadvantages

Fruit peeling only works on the surface of the skin, so it is relatively safe. However, its pros and cons largely depend on the professionalism of the cosmetologist.

“For each patient, the doctor selects the optimal concentration of fruit acid and pH level,” explains Olga Degtyareva. “The lower the pH level, the more active and deeper the active substance penetrates.”

In adolescence, deep penetration of fruit acids is not necessary, since skin problems are always on the surface. For teenage rashes and excessive oily skin, formulations with a high pH level are used. For mature skin, the acidity level of the composition should be higher and the pH lower, in this case it is possible to effectively smooth out wrinkles and accelerate tissue renewal.

At home, without the help of a specialist, it is impossible to select a balanced composition. A small concentration of acid present in products for home use will not give a “salon” effect. And too much can cause burns and serious damage to the skin.

“If you use an adequate concentration of acids, the benefits of the procedure will be at any age, comments Olga Degtyareva. But at home there is no need to take risks, since you can fail to concentrate and harm yourself.”

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Pumpkin peeling Basic

Basic pumpkin peeling is a combination of AHA (glycolic and lactic acids 3%), salicylic acid 2% and pumpkin pulp 40% - a source of natural vitamin A.

Dissolves comedones (blackheads), shrinks pores, has a steaming effect, and also has a strong anti-inflammatory, anti-edematous, absorbable effect, helping to solve a wide range of problems:

• Thick seborrhea – dense comedones due to tight, dense sebum;

• Single inflammatory elements (papules and pustules);

• No age-related changes;

• Hyperkeratosis, “dirty” skin color;

Performs the function of atraumatic skin cleansing , reduces sebum production.

Clinically proven results: 87% reduction in breakouts with the DermaQuest Pumpkin Peel.

* Are you interested in real results and the opinions of cosmetologists about Atraumatic skin cleansing using Basic pumpkin peeling? Read here .

Reviews from people who have used acid peeling

Maria, 19 years old. Kyiv.

I had a superficial peel done at the salon. The procedure did not cause any discomfort, but I did not notice any significant changes in the condition of the skin. Well, my friends noted that I was rested, nothing more. I want to try again going to the cosmetologist in a week and a half, because I want to straighten out my face after teenage acne.

Tatyana, 41 years old. Lviv.

I liked the acid peeling))) The skin really becomes elastic and wrinkles are smoothed out, the only thing that bothers me is the peeling on the surface of the face. The result is wow after the first session, but I don’t plan to limit myself to just one. I’ll make my next hike on vacation, otherwise it’s somehow uncomfortable when the scales fall off while walking.

Ilyana, 36 years old. Dnieper.

A friend advised me to do an acid peel because after the Dukan diet my expression lines became too noticeable. I was afraid. that the face will be red, but in the end the effect exceeded expectations. I began to look younger))) Even medium wrinkles have decreased. I have had three procedures and am planning five more. Oh, by the way, I now always have sunscreen on hand. The master warned about possible pigment spots and sunburn. I would not do such a procedure, since it would be too much to risk my face...

Pumpkin peeling Powerful

Powerful pumpkin peeling differs from the main peeling in a higher percentage of AHA: glycolic and lactic acids 10% each, which gives deeper penetration of the remaining active ingredients.

Indications:

• All previous readings

• Anti-aging effect

Recommended for thicker skin with a good barrier function or high activity of the sebaceous glands. Effective for deformation type of aging , also indicated for the problem of late acne.

A video demonstrating the Pumpkin Peeling procedure can be found at this link .

Care after ultrasonic facial cleansing

Another painless and atraumatic technique. Sebum and impurities are removed from the pores using high frequency ultrasonic waves. The skin receives an additional massage and an incentive for self-rejuvenation - small wrinkles are smoothed out, and collagen and elastin are synthesized more actively. The only negative is that due to the shallow impact, the procedure is ineffective for skin with serious problems.

Skin care after ultrasonic facial cleansing boils down to using cleansers with a neutral pH, additional cleansing with alcohol-free gels and lotions, and moisturizing with face masks.

Almond peeling with Azelaic acid

DermaQuest Almond Peeling contains : mandelic acid 10%, Azelaic acid 2%, Hibiscus flower extract and Lilac lilac stem cells.

Relieves the severity of inflammation and dries out rashes immediately after the first procedure. In order to increase efficiency and concentration, application of up to 3 layers is permissible.

Indications:

  • Pustules – the presence of pustular elements with a low degree of activity;
  • Post-acne pigment spots;
  • Increased production of sebum - in the composition of Lilac Stem Cells - sebostatic effect;
  • Hyperkeratosis and inflammation - indicated for rosacea;

Effects of AHA Fruit Peel

During recovery, the state of the epidermis changes. Chemical acids dissolve dead cells that accumulate on the surface of the epidermis, so that after the first procedure the face becomes fresher and brighter. And after the course, visible changes are noted:

  • smoothing out small wrinkles;
  • pronounced hydration;
  • increased elasticity;
  • reduction in fat content;
  • reducing the number of blackheads;
  • evens out complexion and eliminates hyperpigmentation.

“The main effect of peeling with fruit acids is the reduction of hyperpigmentation,” continues cosmetologist Olga Degtyareva. — If you have age spots, you can take a course of peelings to even out your complexion. It is impossible to predict the number of procedures in advance, since exfoliation occurs differently in each patient and the depth of the pigment is different. But the right concentration of the substance and a sufficient duration of the course will help get rid of this problem.”

Care after laser facial cleansing

A laser beam of a given frequency penetrates deep into the dermis, completely removing the upper problematic layer along with comedones, acne and age spots. The procedure has a rejuvenating effect. Recovery takes 3-5 days. During this time, you should limit your exposure to the sun, avoid temperature changes and intensively moisturize your skin.

Care after combined facial cleansing involves following the principles prescribed for each procedure. Until complete recovery, you should avoid decorative cosmetics, do not use products with alcohol, and protect your skin from ultraviolet radiation and physical influences.

Is restoration required?

Even when using acid peeling for the face from Israel, a long rehabilitation period is required. Its duration depends on the degree of exposure of the substances to the tissue. Recovery may take 7-14 days. Much depends on the physiological abilities of the body. After all, for some, the skin recovers faster, and the regeneration process can take no more than 7 days. For some, this period takes more than two weeks. However, despite this, each patient must comply with the following instructions:

  • The use of ointments and creams that can speed up the healing process. It could be Solcoseryl or Bepanten.
  • Complete refusal to visit saunas and baths.
  • Protecting tissues from accidental injuries.
  • Protection from low temperatures.
  • Refusal to use aggressive facial cleansers.

You should take care of your skin after the procedure in the same way as after receiving a burn.

Hydra Sparkling One-minute Glow Powder Daily Micropeeling


The product was developed by Givenchy.
The most interesting thing is that it comes in powder form. Its texture resembles powder. Upon contact with water, it begins to dissolve and turn into a foam that is pleasant to the touch. Each particle of such powder is a microgranule, which consists of active components: hyaluronic, glycolic and salicylic acid, hydrolyzed protein. According to reviews, this composition is consumed sparingly and is intended for daily use. This peeling is ideal for sensitive skin. How to use it? It is necessary to pour a little powder into the palm of your hand, dilute with water, and then apply to the skin of the face, while making massaging movements with your fingertips. After 1 minute, the product should be washed off with water. As a result, the skin becomes smooth and radiant, and the pores are cleared of oil and dirt.

The cost of one container of powder is 2990 rubles.

How does the procedure affect the condition of the skin?

How does acid peeling for the face work? Reviews, photos before and after the procedure do not provide an accurate explanation. Therefore, the issue is worth considering in more detail. The principle of the procedure is to injure tissue by causing burns to certain layers of the skin. As a result, regeneration processes are activated in the body.

At first glance, this method may seem cruel. However, thanks to the procedure, youth can be restored. Acid peeling can eliminate minor wrinkles, give the skin a healthy tone, and also get rid of scars that have arisen as a result of removing blackheads or acne.

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