What is shea butter?
This is an extract that is extracted in Africa from the fruits (more precisely, the seeds of the fruits) of the tree of the same name growing there. It is also called the tree of life; in some countries its felling has been banned. The reason is that many African settlements make their living by extracting shea butter, and the shea tree produces its first fruits at the age of 25!
When manually producing shea butter, the process takes a long time, requires a huge amount of effort and resources: first, the fruits are collected, then the kernels (seeds) are released, after which their lengthy processing begins. The result is a solid white, slightly yellowish (ivory) or creamy shea butter that has a subtle nutty odor similar to coconut.
In its homeland, it is quietly used in the kitchen: food prepared using this extract tastes and smells the same as if it was cooked in cow butter. But the product we have is purely cosmetic in nature; food is not prepared with it.
In order for this batter to fully demonstrate all its benefits, you need to approach it seriously: use must be in reasonable doses, and various cosmetic products must be prepared from it strictly according to the recipe.
General information
Photo by Alina Blumberg: Pexels
Shea butter has a firm consistency and a light nutty aroma. Unrefined or natural oil, unrefined from impurities, has a greenish-brown hue. Refined, free of impurities - creamy, almost white.
The product is obtained from small seeds, with a diameter of no more than 5 cm, brown in color, with dense white pulp. The shea tree grows in Africa, so in Russia all shea butter is imported.
To manufacture a product, you need to go through three stages in sequence:
- During the rainy season, ripe fruits are collected and buried directly in the vats in the ground, where they are stored for at least 12 days. During this time, the pulp of the fruit rots, and the seeds are easily removed so that they can be boiled and fried;
- the peel is removed from the finished seeds by crushing, and the pulp is fried for a day and then also crushed with a stone, pounded in a mortar to obtain a thick paste;
- Add a lot of water to the paste and knead by hand for quite a long time. Then rinse the resulting mixture to remove dirty residues and obtain a dense, light foam. It is boiled for many hours, the top layer is removed and cooled. This is shea butter.
Of course, this is a purely African way of obtaining oil, labor-intensive and expensive. Cosmetics manufacturers prefer to buy tree seeds and process them themselves using high technology.
Shea butter is afraid of the sun; under its direct rays it quickly deteriorates and becomes not useful, but harmful. Therefore, store the product in the dark and cool.
Compound
This extract is of a basic nature, its basis is triglycerides, which moisturize the skin and restore the epidermis. In addition, the use of shea butter is due to the acids it contains:
- stearic;
- oleic;
- linoleic and linolenic;
- palmitic.
There are also so-called unsaponifiable substances - phenols, tocopherols and others. The extract contains the least amount of terpene alcohols, but it is their presence that provides the original aroma used in perfumes and cosmetics for fragrance.
This composition of shea butter makes it extremely valuable in the production of cosmetics. The properties and use of shea butter cosmetics depend on whether refined or unrefined raw materials are used.
In the INCI international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients, this product is called Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter.
Natural oils in FEMEGYL® cosmetic products
Ph.D. N.Yu. Ukolova, Ph.D. A.V. Dirsch, E.A. Kostkin Department of Trichology, Cosmetology and Nutraceuticals
One of the features of FEMEGYL brand cosmetics is the presence in their composition of high-quality natural oils, such as fermented olive oil, argan oil and shea butter.
In ancient times, olive oil was used in all areas of life - from home life, religious rituals to sports and medicine. In addition, among the peoples of the Mediterranean it was also used as a cosmetic product for basic skin and hair care. It was called "liquid gold". Do not forget that the first cream was made by the ancient Greek physician Claudius Galen (129–199 AD) based on olive oil.
Consumption of olive oil naturally reduces the level of bad cholesterol in the blood without affecting the content of its beneficial variety, and is an indispensable means of preventing cardiovascular diseases, strokes and gastric ulcers.
Olive oil contains half the saturated fat found in other vegetable oils. Its biological and therapeutic value is based on the unique properties of unsaturated fatty acids: oleic (which is 3.5 times more in this oil than in any other), linoleic and linolenic. In general, the formula of olive oil stands out from all other vegetable oils: it contains a maximum of monounsaturated, easily broken down fats and a minimum of saturated fats. In addition, olive oil contains vitamins A, B, D, C, E, K, thanks to the latter, as is known, the body better absorbs vitamins dissolved in fats.
Olive oil is so versatile that, from a cosmetological point of view, it is suitable for almost any skin type at any age.
FEMEGYL cosmetics use fermented olive oil. Controlled fermentation of oils allows the triglyceride molecule to be separated into a glycerol molecule and molecules of valuable fatty acids (including unsaturated ones) without damaging the latter. Fermented olive oil contains tens of times more free fatty acids than the original oil.
Fermented oil is much more “nutritious”, since the fatty acids are already “released” and are able to integrate into cell membranes. It is “ultra-light” due to the reduction in “heavy” triglycerides, and the lipid balance is shifted towards “lighter” free fatty acids. This oil is less greasy and oily, with a pleasant non-sticky feeling on the skin. All these properties of olive oil are used in the FEMEGYL nourishing mask, providing a “light” base and nutrition.
With regular use of the FEMEGYL nourishing mask, the appearance of wrinkles is prevented. In addition, fermented olive oil contains a large amount of antioxidants and vitamin E, which promotes skin regeneration and helps the body effectively absorb vitamins A, D, K, preventing cell aging. Olive oil in a nourishing mask softens the skin and prevents cells from losing moisture, making it an excellent moisturizer. It is very important to note that this oil does not clog pores and is suitable even for problem skin.
In FEMEGYL cosmetics, fermented olive oil is also used in men's cream. The oil in the cream has all the properties and helps relieve irritation after daily shaving.
Application of argan
oils in FEMEGYL products are not just a fashion trend.
Scientists have proven its positive effect on human health. Argan oil has a pronounced Anti-Aging
effect.
Argan oil is obtained from the fruits of a unique tree called Argan, also called the “iron tree”. This tree grows in only one place on earth, in the southwest of the Kingdom of Morocco. The fruits of the argan tree are shaped like olives, yellow in color, and the flesh tastes bitter. Each fruit contains 2-3 seeds. Argan oil is obtained by pressing the kernels, which are located inside the hard seeds.
Argan oil is considered one of the most expensive oils in the world and is called the “liquid gold” of Morocco. The high cost of argan oil is due to several factors: the high labor intensity of the process, the need for a large amount of raw materials (to obtain 1.5-2 liters of argan oil, about 100 kg of argan fruits are required). According to the ancient customs of this country, the production of argan oil is carried out exclusively by women, from harvesting the fruits to hand-squeezing the oil. Here it is believed that women put their souls into this valuable product.
Argan oil contains important omega fatty acids, such as oleic and linoleic acids, phytosterols, squalene, alpha tocopherol, vitamin E, and carotenoids.
In the FEMEGYL line, argan oil is contained in a cream scrub, a revitalizing cream for the skin of the face, neck and décolleté, an intensive nourishing face mask and a men's moisturizing face cream.
Femegyl products with argan oil have antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, nourishing, and rejuvenating properties.
One of the main reasons for the healing properties of argan oil is due to the huge presence of vitamin E in its composition. Vitamin E is a strong antioxidant. In addition, vitamin E takes an active part in tissue regeneration and keeps the skin young and healthy. The carotenoids contained in the oil have pronounced anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and wound-healing properties. Promote the natural production of beauty proteins collagen and keratin. Squalene is a powerful antioxidant. The substance squalene is one of the derivatives of vitamin A, promotes the natural synthesis of vitamin D, normalizes hormone production, prevents early aging, and supports the immune system. Oleic acid has a powerful protective effect on damaged and sensitive skin, linoleic acid strengthens the natural lipid barrier and protects cell membranes.
When using FEMEGYL products that contain argan oil, blood circulation improves, the water-lipid mantle is restored, the skin is moisturized, nourished, and the number of wrinkles is reduced. The elasticity and firmness of the skin increases.
Another oil that is used in FEMEGYL products is shea butter.
The shea tree is called the African miracle for its value, and the shea butter made from the fruits is called African gold. The scientific name of this plant is Butyrospermum parkii, in Wolof it is called karite
, in Peul -
kare
or
kolo
, in Bambara -
se
(hence the English name
shea
- shi). The tree looks like an ordinary oak. Like oak trees, the shea tree is a long-lived tree, living up to 200 years. The Shea tree is considered sacred in Africa. Only women can harvest the crops.
Almost all historical accounts that talk about Africa, the era before the 19th century, mention shea butter. Queen Cleopatra herself used this oil. Whole caravans with clay jugs were equipped for shea butter; it was in them that shea butter was transported and stored.
Fatty shea butter is obtained from the pulp of the fruit seeds, where its content reaches 50%. The kernels are cleaned and pounded into flour in wooden mortars, then boiled to an oil-like state and eventually shea butter is obtained.
From 100 kg of raw materials, 20–30 kg of fatty oil is obtained. The composition of the oil is dominated by triglycerides (in total up to 80%), oleic (40–55%), stearic (35–45%), palmitic (3%) fatty acids, and also contains vitamins A, D, E, F. This type oils have the highest percentage of healing fraction (unsaponifiable) - from 5% to 17%. The unsaponifiable fraction contains phytosterols and triterpenes. For example, in the vast majority of other vegetable oils this figure, as a rule, does not exceed 1.5%.
The use of shea butter in FEMEGYL restorative cream for the face, neck and décolleté provides anti-inflammatory, decongestant, moisturizing, nourishing, antiseptic, regenerating and protective effects.
Thanks to the presence of linoleic acid in shea butter, FEMEGYL restoring cream restores smoothness, elasticity to the skin, and reduces wrinkles. Shea butter is rich in vitamins A and E: vitamin A rejuvenates the skin and nourishes it, and vitamin E improves microcirculation and slows down the aging process. The unsaponifiable fraction in shea butter has regenerating properties, affecting collagen synthesis and skin rejuvenation, and provides a UV protective effect.
FEMEGYL cosmetics will never cause discomfort or harm your skin, no matter what individual characteristics it has. All oils in the products are hypoallergenic.
In FEMEGYL products, oils play the role of enhancers, facilitating the penetration of ingredients through the stratum corneum, strengthening and accelerating this process.
The unique composition of FEMEGYL products ensures the possibility of using products for all skin types. Oils are versatile natural active ingredients with excellent emollient, moisturizing and anti-aging properties.
This ensures greater efficiency from the use of FEMEGYL products.
Literature 1. Bikmurzin N.I., Karakutsev S.V. Natural plant and essential oils for breathing, nutrition and health. Tver: LLC Publishing House "Satori", 2003. 2. Cunningham S. Complete book of incense, oils and potions. Per. from English Rostov n/d.: Phoenix, 1998. 3. Rudakov, O. B. Fats. Chemical composition and quality examination // M.: DeliPrint, 2005. - 351 p. 4. Vasilenko M. A. Essential and vegetable oils for beauty and health. Rostov n/d.: Phoenix: 2015. 5. Lukin A. A., Pirozhinsky S. G. Characteristics and quality indicators of some types of vegetable oils // Young scientist. - 2013. - No. 7. 6. Solovyova T. Organic cosmetics: natural + highly environmentally friendly // Russian pharmacies. - 2008. No. 19. 7. Hernandez E.I. Natural cosmetics in modern understanding and execution // Cosmetics and medicine. - 2006. No. 2.
Cosmetic properties
The cosmetic properties of shea fruit extract are based on the rejuvenating effect of triglycerides and the ability of oleic and other natural acids to protect the skin, restore it at the cellular level, and promote collagen production.
Any cream with shea butter is a valuable cosmetic product that can effectively:
- moisturize the skin, retain moisture in the epidermis;
- protect from the harmful effects of solar ultraviolet radiation;
- protect from unwanted environmental influences at any time of the year;
- smooth out facial wrinkles;
- help reduce swelling, etc.
Active organic matter in shea has a positive effect on metabolism, which, in turn, slows down the aging of the skin and the body as a whole. The same property affects the resorption of edema - most often women suffer from “bags” under the eyes, and to combat this sad phenomenon, cosmetologists have created such a miracle as patches with this extract.
The use of shea butter in cosmetology is enriched by combining it with other natural products - vegetable and essential oils, crushed organic matter (plants, fruits, citrus peels, coffee beans, etc.), nutritional supplements (cream, eggs, etc.). For example, shea butter with rose oil, lemon juice, scrubs with coffee grounds, etc. are highly valued.
Shea butter is very popular in anti-aging cosmetics - anti-wrinkle creams, masks, and other ready-made cosmetics are produced by many well-known brands. The use of creams with this extract, by enhancing the production of collagen, not only makes the skin more elastic, removes fine wrinkles, but also helps against stretch marks - the eternal problem of pregnant women and those who have repeatedly gained and lost weight.
Natural shea butter is highly valued by cosmetologists for its property of not clogging skin pores with the subsequent formation of sebaceous plugs, blackheads (comedones) - in other words, it is not comedogenic. Each cosmetic oil receives its own conditional points for comedogenicity - the ability to clog the skin, expand pores, and create a favorable environment for the development of pathogenic microorganisms inside the sebaceous plug. This oil has 0 points on this scale - but cosmetologists still warn people with oily skin about using the product carefully.
Properties
Shea butter can be refined or unrefined. The latter is more useful, since when obtaining the oil, no additional chemical treatments occur and more beneficial properties are retained. Both options are used in cosmetology. What effect does shea butter have on skin and hair?
- moisturizes;
- relieves inflammation;
- nourishes;
- heals;
- stimulates blood circulation;
- protects from sun rays;
- relieves peeling;
- evens out tone;
- keeps you in good shape;
- eliminates wrinkles;
- reduces scars;
- relieves swelling;
- calms;
- fights acne;
- makes the skin matte;
- restores damaged hair;
- relieves curls from fragility;
- eliminates split ends.
Medicinal properties
Modern medicine readily adopted this medicinal oil from the arsenal of traditional healers and uses it in the treatment of numerous ailments:
- pathologies of the musculoskeletal system (sprains, dislocations, injuries of varying severity, including fractures);
- infectious diseases of viral etiology (influenza and various acute respiratory viral infections);
- psoriasis;
- varicose veins, etc.
This extract is effective for atopic dermatitis, trophic ulcers, acne and other symptomatic manifestations of diseases of the endocrine system. It is used to treat burns (including sunburn), and it is also used to resolve scars and heal wounds.
The benefits of shea butter are also due to its ability to penetrate deep into tissues, warming them, stimulating lymph flow, and improving blood circulation. This makes it possible to use it as a decongestant for thrombophlebitis, varicose veins and other vascular problems.
Shea butter during pregnancy is used not only to prevent stretch marks (striae) or eliminate them, but also to reduce swelling of the face and limbs. It is absolutely safe for expectant mothers to use this product due to its hypoallergenicity. Pregnant women can use this product as an antiseptic and a natural moisturizer for the oral and nasal mucosa for colds.
Video: benefits of shea butter (karite)
Here you can clearly see how to use shea butter and what results you can achieve. The video shows a cream for stretch marks with an explanation of the rules for applying it.
Features of application
Shea butter can be used in its pure form or added to shampoos, hair masks, balms, creams and any other skin care cosmetics. To avoid having to throw away your favorite remedy due to an unpredictable reaction, you should consider some nuances:
- If you have any dermatological diseases, it is better to consult your doctor.
- Before use, you should do a sensitivity test - apply a little product to a small area of skin and wait 24 hours.
- Shea butter should be stored in a closed container at room temperature. To prevent the composition from losing its beneficial properties, it should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
- It is not recommended to use the oil after the expiration date, as the beneficial properties are lost over time.
Production
The vast majority of factory-made cosmetics are obtained from shea tree extract, which is also obtained in a factory way. The reason is that the oil obtained through manual processing and lengthy step-by-step extraction is too expensive, and the production cannot be compared with the industrial scale of use.
The current realities are such that women in African villages do not bother with the long process of production (especially since resellers take the finished product from them for pennies), but only engage in assembling fruits and separating kernels, which they sell.
Shea butter uses
Shea extract can be used in a variety of ways, but its main area of application is facial and body skin care. This product moisturizes, nourishes and restores the skin during age-related changes, environmental influences (low or high air temperature, dryness, ultraviolet radiation, etc.), pathological changes (skin diseases, dermatitis) and others.
If we talk about body care, then unrefined shea butter works wonders with the roughness of the elbows: the skin in this part of the body undergoes changes in people engaged in “desktop” work - keratinization begins on the outer side, the skin becomes hard and rough. Another part of the body that is no less closely monitored is the female breast. For the chest, there are masks with extract, so-called Arabic wraps, massages using this product. Such care is especially important during lactation, when the mammary glands stretch significantly, and during menopause when the epidermis withers.
Facial care products with shea extract are divided into separate lines, since different parts of the face require different care. For example, to prevent lips from becoming chapped and to help cracks heal faster, a balm is used. And the delicate skin of the eyelids and under the eyes requires very delicate care; for this they came up with patches - plate-pads that are applied to the area under the eyes to eliminate swelling, redness, and wrinkles. Shea butter is used separately for eyelashes - it eliminates itching and prevents eyelash loss and redness along the edges of the eyelids.
For the facial skin itself, in addition to masks, shea scrubs are useful, to which are added chopped zest, ground coffee, dried apple peel and ground in a coffee grinder, etc. Women who take good care of their face apply shea butter as a base for daytime makeup and apply it before bed.
Shea butter is used for tanning: before this, you need to scrub the skin to exfoliate dead particles, after which the product is applied to the body. It prevents sunburn and promotes an even, beautiful tan without redness.
A separate women's article is hair and nails. For hair, they came up with masks, balms and shampoo with shea butter, which it is advisable to use in a comprehensive manner - the production of cosmetics in one line is based on this principle. Shea butter for nails prevents splitting of the nail plate, softens the cuticle (this has made the product popular for unedged European manicures), strengthens keratin and makes nails beautiful and shiny.
In medicine
For medical purposes, both unrefined and purified shea butter is used. The finished products indicate the type of raw materials used. The extract is included in ointments, liniments, anti-burn agents, and antibacterial external preparations. It is used for hemorrhoids, applying the ointment directly to the nodes to normalize the condition of the veins.
Since beauty and health are inextricably linked for women, cosmetic problems are treated (and correctly!) as medical ones. Therefore, anti-cellulite massages with shea butter are done in massage rooms and clinics. Women after childbirth use this massage to tighten their stretched abdominal wall, and at the end of lactation they restore the shape of their breasts.
Babies lubricate their plump folds with shea butter to prevent diaper rash - but you need to watch to make sure that the allergic reaction does not go unnoticed.
To treat skin diseases, both pure shea butter and its mixture with other components are used, depending on the nature of the pathology. The oil melts from the heat of the human body, after which it is easily absorbed. But it is better to use it long before bedtime or use fabric bandages on top so as not to stain the bed linen.
In cooking
Recently, this product is increasingly used in the confectionery industry - it resembles cocoa butter and has similar qualities. In their homeland, it is used for frying vegetables and other products - every resident of Burkina Faso has her own signature recipe for a family dish. Americans mainly use edible shea, like other nut butters, to make sandwiches. Our culinary shea butter is quite rare and very expensive, but you can make holiday baking with it.
Since this is a solid oil, it cannot be used to dress salads.
At home
Our household use of shea butter extract is limited to solving minor cosmetic problems that arise in the course of our life - for hands that are chapped in winter, for backs that are sunburned during summer cottage work, and the like.
Or maybe it’s our native Africa... There, the unrefined shea kernel product is used to coat the adobe walls of houses before the onset of the rainy season - it’s an excellent sealant. Windows and doors are treated in the same way, after which they sit dry and wait for the rains to end.
Special properties
Shea butter has one more “secret”: it makes the soap incomparable: minimum foam - maximum delicate care. The oil is used in children's cosmetics, including newborns. The product prevents and relieves diaper rash, is hypoallergenic, and softens the skin.
Giphy
These same properties are also in demand in care products for the skin around the eyes and eyebrows. In addition, in the periorbital area, the oil smoothes wrinkles, nourishes the skin of the eyelids, and brightens it. Shea butter is added to mascara, they grow beautiful, thick, and the mascara also makes them expressive.
There is oil in serums for eyelashes and eyebrows on the same bases. Hands and nails also love shea butter: it softens the skin and strengthens the nail plates.
Manufacturers and prices
The price depends on the type of oil (refined-unrefined), the volume of factory packaging and, of course, the popularity of the brand. A domestic manufacturer (Aromatika) sells a 50 ml jar of cream for 330 rubles, and the L'Occitane company offers only 8 ml of this organic product for 350 rubles. One of the most expensive cosmetic lines with shea butter is the Korean cosmetics brand Elizavecca; it widely uses shea extract in its skin care lines. The price is elite. Therefore, you need to search and compare, try and share your impressions and experiences.
Nail products, shampoo with shea butter and other similar products are purchased only at certified points, then you can be sure that you did not pay for an unknown composition, but for a healing product.
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Benefits of shea butter for the face
Shea butter is a source of youth and nourishment for facial skin. It is included in cosmetics for the care of dry, normal and oily skin, as well as in anti-aging products. The action is to soften and nourish the skin, smooth out wrinkles and stimulate collagen production. The product is also used to eliminate sensitive skin problems. The oil relieves itching, dryness and irritation, normalizes the water balance of the epidermis.
As an auxiliary component, oil is included in anti-acne products. It helps reduce inflammation and restore skin after damage, and also softens and nourishes it.
In addition, shea butter is a powerful natural antioxidant. It protects the epidermis from ultraviolet radiation and prevents photoaging.
