Silky and clear skin is the dream of every woman. But, unfortunately, this is almost impossible to achieve using conventional means. Scrubs, gels, film masks “for deep cleansing” - at best, remove the top layer of dead cells and temporarily lighten the pores, but they cannot cope with more serious problems. In our clinic you can get glycolic peeling and get truly beautiful and healthy skin!
Glycolic acid and other fruit acids.
Glycolic acid ranks first in popularity and frequency of use of all acids used in cosmetology. It belongs to the group of AHA acids.
The true meaning of these three letters (AHA) is clear to chemists and is not available to you and me. They indicate the chemical structure - the hydroxyl group of AHA acids is connected to a carbon atom in the alpha position.
Another name for this group is not so boring and sounds more understandable and frivolous - fruit acids, since they are found in fruits. In particular, glycolic, in green grapes or sugar cane.
Natural sources of glycolic acid are green grapes and cane.
Table of the most common AHAs and their characteristics.
Name | Features, distinctive characteristics, interesting facts |
Glycolic | It has the smallest molecule and easily penetrates the epidermal barrier. Most often used in peelings. Has a pronounced exfoliating effect. IMPORTANT!!! Increases skin sensitivity to solar radiation. Contained in sugar cane and green grapes. |
Dairy | Part of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. These are substances that are contained in the stratum corneum and contribute to its hydration. For this reason, in addition to exfoliation, it has a moisturizing effect. |
Almond | Has the most delicate exfoliating effect. Does not increase skin sensitivity to solar radiation. Inhibits the process of melanogenesis. |
Apple | Activates metabolic processes in cells. It is found in large quantities in apples and tomatoes. |
Wine | It has a complex of effects: exfoliation, whitening, moisturizing. Contained in ripe grapes, old wine, oranges. |
Lemon | It has a relatively large molecule. Has a whitening effect. Contained in citrus fruits. |
What are these substances capable of?
The main effect for which these components are used in cosmetics: exfoliation and renewal of the epidermis. More precisely, intensive exfoliation compared to the natural desquamation of horny scales. Intensity has a downside - possible irritation.
These substances were not immediately recognized for their effectiveness. After the initial euphoria, complaints of irritation and burns appeared. This has forced cosmetic brands to take a more serious approach to developing effective and safe compositions containing AHAs. As a result, an effective and safe acidity range for cosmetic formulas was determined to be 3.5–4 pH.
pH is a measure of acidity. The lower the pH value, the more acidic the solution is and the greater the exfoliating, and therefore irritating, effect it has on the epidermis. At low pH values, irritation may occur, which is familiar when using professional peels in salons. For home cosmetics, the pH range of 3.5–4 is optimal from the point of view of safety and effectiveness.
In addition to exfoliation, acid cosmetics have additional effects.
- Moisturizes.
- Has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
- Remodels the dermal matrix, indirectly stimulates the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans.
- Improves the penetration ability of other cosmetic components.
What can glycolic acid do in cosmetics?
From the general characteristics of this group of components, let's move on to the properties of glycolic acid. What makes it special? Why is it so popular and loved by cosmetologists? What sets her apart from other colleagues in the industry?
- Of all the fruits, it is glycolic that has the strongest proliferative effect on fibroblasts. What does it mean? As a result of this effect, collagen and its own hyaluronic acid are produced, and wrinkles become less pronounced. The skin gains a second youth.
- Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule and easily penetrates the stratum corneum. The epidermis responds more responsively to its effects compared to other acids.
- Of all fruit acids, at the same concentration, glycolic acidity is the lowest. It can be called the most sour of all fruit sours. It most actively exfoliates old, lifeless epidermal cells. The effect of its use appears much faster compared to its colleagues.
- By itself, glycolic acid does not have a powerful antioxidant effect, but in the company of other antioxidants, it significantly increases their activity.
This substance can be called the most exfoliating and most rejuvenating active of all fruit acids. It is used to eliminate various imperfections and for different skin conditions.
- Reduces imperfections in oily, problem skin (acne).
- Used in products for the care of aging skin.
- Used to correct age spots.
- And of course, it is used as a basis for peelings.
Mechanism of action and effectiveness
Glycolic acid is responsible for quickly stimulating the cell renewal process, as a result of which the skin is cleansed and epidermal cells are renewed. It is characterized by a low molecular weight, therefore it has a positive effect even with its minimal content in a cosmetology product.
The effectiveness of the product has been proven by many women who, through personal example, show significant changes that cannot be ignored. Among the positive properties of glycolic acid are:
- Providing uniform exfoliation;
- No damage even on sensitive skin;
- Quickly fight acne or pimples;
- Getting rid of visible wrinkles at any age;
- Elimination of hyperkeratosis.
It is important to know! AHA acids always help increase skin photosensitivity. That is why, if they are present in a skincare product, you need to use facial protection not only during the summer season, but all year round.
After using this product, the skin quickly becomes elastic, soft, its tone increases, and wrinkles are smoothed out. Cell renewal occurs instantly; it is enough to use the cream daily, absorb it well into the skin, achieving the desired result.
Watch the video for interesting facts about glycolic acid:
Glycolic acid for the benefit of your face.
What results can you get from using such cosmetics? First of all, this component is valued for its excellent exfoliating ability. And this is not enough. Exfoliation is an important cosmetic benefit. Let's not be unfounded and present the facts.
Tired complexion, gray, dull tone, these are dead cells of the stratum corneum. Let your skin get rid of this burden, breathe a cheerful and cheerful sigh, fill with purity, freshness and radiance. After this figurative introduction, let's move on to more meaningful information.
- Exfoliation against keratosis. The healthy state of the epidermis depends on two processes: the rate of desquamation of the stratum corneum and the rate of division of keratinocytes. If these processes are not synchronized, problems appear in the form of keratosis, age-related changes become more pronounced due to thickening of the stratum corneum. What can balance these processes? Products containing glycolic acid.
- Exfoliation for rejuvenation. Artificial damage to the surface layer of the epidermis, although it is more correct to define this process differently. Artificial and controlled damage to the upper layers of the epidermis gives a signal for the renewal of not only the epidermis itself, but also the components of the dermal matrix. First of all, collagen fibers. As a result, the severity of wrinkles decreases and the skin becomes more elastic.
- Exfoliation against pigmentation. Lightening of pigmentation also depends on the intensity of renewal of the layers of the epidermis. Cells affected by pigment move higher and higher and eventually slough off. As a result, pigmentation becomes less pronounced.
- Exfoliation for oily skin. As a result of loosening the stratum corneum, in skin with acne, it is easier to squeeze out comedones. Ulcers open up. The sebaceous glands become available for treatment and the influence of special cosmetic components that reduce their activity. Additionally, exfoliation prevents follicles from getting clogged. But that’s not all when it comes to caring for oily skin. This effect acidifies the skin, and this has a beneficial effect on the condition of the acid mantle. Since acne causes alkalization of the surface of the epidermis.
And now everything is the same, but briefly.
Glycolic acid in cosmetics is a striking effect of use.
The effect of radiance and freshness. The microrelief is leveled, the gray tint of lifeless, horny scales is eliminated, and the face acquires a fresh glow. This result can be obtained relatively quickly due to the high activity of this component.
Oily skin care. Post-acne marks (scars, pigmentation) are smoothed out, pores look neat, the face takes on a well-groomed appearance, and gets rid of an earthy tint.
Correction of age spots. The pigmentation color becomes less saturated, the contrast of the spot decreases.
Anti-aging effect. Wrinkles are reduced and the skin becomes more elastic. The use of glycolic acid in anti-aging cosmetics gives a noticeable rejuvenating effect.
Agree, this is not little and is worth it to buy cosmetics with glycolic acid.
Serums with hyaluronic acid
So, my favorite hyaluronic acid serums. At the end of the list are products with the maximum concentration of hyaluronic acid. If your skin is young, you can take cheaper products with a low concentration. For more mature skin, choose more effective products. But I repeat once again that even the maximum concentration of hyaluronic acid is suitable for young skin.
Now Foods, Solutions, Hyaluronic Acid Firming Serum, 30 ml
iherb.com
830 rub.
Buy now
Derma E, Ultra Hydrating Serum, 60 ml (2 fl oz)
iherb.com
RUB 1,640
Buy now
Reviva Labs, Hyaluronic Acid Serum, 1 fl oz (29.5 ml)
iherb.com
1,400 rub.
Buy now
Cosmedica Skincare, Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum, 2 oz (60 ml)
iherb.com
RUB 1,157
Buy now
Advanced Clinicals, Hyaluronic Serum, 1.75 fl oz (52 ml)
iherb.com
772 rub.
Buy now
Mizon, Hyaluronic Acid 100, 1.01 fl. oz. (30 ml)
iherb.com
RUB 1,156
Buy now
Nature's Way, Hydraplenish, Sodium Hyaluronic Serum, Super Potency, 1 fl oz (30 ml)
iherb.com
RUB 2,519
Buy now
InstaNatural, Hyaluronic Acid Serum 85%, Anti-Aging, 1 fl oz (30 ml)
iherb.com
RUB 1,157
Buy now
I note that the second serum is from Derma E
It has the consistency of liquid milk with a pleasant floral aroma. Some people won’t even need cream after it.
The rest of the serums are gel-like.
Hydraplenish hyaluronic serum
– 88% (!!!) hyaluronic acid! For aging skin - a chic option from InstaNatural with the Hyaluronix® multimolecular complex (several types of hyaluronic acid).
The effects of glycolic acid on facial skin.
If we understood cosmetic chemistry, we would competently read the physiology of the exfoliation process. Like all fruit acids, when glycolic is applied to the epidermis, the following occurs.
1. The acidity (pH) of the stratum corneum decreases, this causes destabilization of the lipid barrier. The properties of the components that ensure reliable adhesion of the cells of the stratum corneum change. 2. Calcium ions are bound. As a result, intercellular contacts are weakened, and connections between cells are destroyed under the influence of proteolytic enzymes. 3. A decrease in calcium concentration serves as a trigger for the division of basal keratinocytes. 4. The update mechanism has started.
But you and I are not chemists; for us, another concept of exfoliation is more valuable, exfoliation as a process of facial rejuvenation.
With age, most processes in the body slow down. This also applies to the desquamation of horny scales of the epidermis. The renewal cycle depends on age. If for young skin the cycle is 28-30 days, then over the years this period increases. By the age of 40, the figure can be up to 40 days. Each year adds more and more days to the renewal cycle. Every year the skin is less and less filled with life. The number of dead horny scales in terms of the number of days is only growing. The face loses its cheerfulness, a dull tone prevails.
Cosmetics with glycolic acid can turn back the clock and restart the process of epidermal renewal. Add here the anti-aging effect of dermal remodeling. It will become clear that every woman who cares about the youth of her face should have such cosmetics.
What happened: dull complexion, gray tint, roughness, uneven texture.
After use: freshness and radiance, collagen and hyaluronic acid are produced, which straighten the skin.
Vichy, Normaderm
Where to buy: vichyconsult.ru - 1,771 rubles, wildberries.ru - 1,328 rubles.
A very light cream with a gel texture. You can use it from the age of 30, it works great with the first wrinkles, improves complexion and reduces the production of sebum, which means it fights pimples. The main thing is not to skimp, because its consistency allows you to distribute a small amount over your face, but we need a dose approximately the size of a bean.
Precautions, restrictions on use.
The irritating potential inherent in these cosmetics imposes certain restrictions on their use. These cosmetics may not always be suitable for every skin. We list the precautions that must be observed to obtain the desired effect. What you need to pay attention to when using cosmetics with glycolic acid, which may be a contraindication.
- Individual intolerance.
- Fresh injuries.
- Herpetic rashes.
- Telangiectasia.
The most common limitations include the following skin characteristics or external influences.
Increased sensitivity. Such skin may react with irritation to acidic cosmetics. If you have any doubts, it is better to do a test on the back of your hand and observe the reaction over the course of 24 hours.
Prolonged sun exposure. Such cosmetics increase the skin's sensitivity to solar activity. As a result, hyperpigmentation may appear. Therefore, with a relatively high concentration of this component in the products used, the accompanying effect should be protection from solar radiation. Protection with SPF of at least 15, or clothing that shades areas where cosmetics are used. For the same reason - the risk of hyperpigmentation, you need to be prepared to stop using such cosmetics a month before solar activity. This is especially true for peelings.
Scheme for using glycolic peeling
1 month
morning: any tonic + serum that is relevant for you + any cream you have evening – glycolic tonic + glycolic cream 5% + after 1 minute moisturizer or night cream
2 month
morning: glycolic toner + glycolic cream 5% + after 1 min any cream of yours evening: glycolic tonic + glycolic cream 5% + after 1 min moisturizer or night cream
3 month and beyond until active sunlight
morning: any tonic + serum that is relevant for you + any cream you have evening: glycolic tonic + glycolic cream 10% + after 1 minute moisturizer or night cream.
First apply 10% cream 3 times a week. On days when we do not apply, we also use the morning regimen in the evening. Then we get used to this concentration and use glycolic cream every evening. Please note that we always use 10% cream only at night. No need in the morning.
Who wants, you can add one of the three serums from this post
. And in any case, apply everything in a thin layer. More doesn't mean better. Serums – just a few pumps of the dispenser.
Glycolic acid in cosmetics.
These are not only professional peelings in beauty salons. This component can be found in almost any type of product used in home care.
- Wash, various skin cleansers and tonics.
- Eyelid care products, where glycolic can be combined with vitamin C. This composition reduces characteristic problems for the skin around the eyes - dark circles, expression lines, puffiness.
- In creams for various purposes, for different skin types and elimination of various imperfections.
- In additional care products: masks and serums.
Glycolic acid is appropriate in all skin care products, as it increases the activity of other cosmetic components. In her company you can find:
- other fruit acids, as well as salicylic acid to enhance the exfoliating effect, as well as PHA acids,
- various humidifiers,
- phytoestrogens,
- vitamins,
- antioxidants,
- plant extracts,
- whitening assets.