Anti-aging components in cosmetics. Part 2: Peptides: cosmetics of the future

Peptides are the newest word in modern cosmetology. These tiny molecules, consisting of different sequences of amino acids, play a huge role in various regulatory processes. There are a huge number of peptides, and today not all have been studied and known to man. However, their role is enormous, and if we learn to influence the finest mechanisms through regulation, we will be able to achieve great results.

In this article we will look at peptides used specifically in injection cosmetology and the preparations in which they are presented.

Signal peptides

1.1. Peptides that activate the synthesis of collagen and other intercellular structures

This type of peptides call skin cells to certain actions, that is, they “send” a signal about what they need to do. Signal peptides are capable of triggering a cascade of biochemical processes in the synthesis of key components of the dermis. These peptides are released from the extracellular matrix, hence their name - matrikines. Due to matrikins, the synthesis of collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans and fibronectin, hyaluronic acid increases. Natural skin pigmentation is restored, fine folds and wrinkles are reduced, skin turgor and elasticity increase.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 MATRIXYL and Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 MATRIXYL 3000

The most studied signal peptide that stimulates the synthetic activity of fibroblasts and renewal of the dermal matrix component.

Aurevitelli P.Nutrivive (Nefis, Spain)

Ageline Apriline (Suisselle, Switzerland)

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 MATRIXIL SYNTE 6 and Acetyl decapeptide-3 REJULINE

These are matrikin-like compounds that have a pronounced ability to strengthen the extracellular matrix, which stimulates wound healing processes and restoration of collagen fibers. They activate the production of the protein Laminin-5, which is an important component of the basement membrane, where it provides mechanical attachment of the epidermis to the dermis. Laminin-5 is also responsible for the migration of keratinocytes and accelerates the process of repair of damaged epidermis.

Vita Skin (Re Nova, Italy)

Aquashine (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

Hexapeptide-10 SERILESINE

Increases the synthesis of desmosomes, ensuring contact between the epidermis and dermis. Stimulates the formation of laminin and integrin, accelerates the division of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The skin becomes elastic and smooth.

HA-Face and Neck (Optima, Italy)

Oligopeptide -72 BOOSTRIN

Increases the proliferation of fibroblasts, activates collagen synthesis, inhibits the processes of degradation of the intercellular substance of the dermis, inhibiting the activity of matrix metalloproteinase and hyaluronidase.

Aquashine (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

Oligopeptide-23 CG-EPD 3

Helps increase the level of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, as well as the production of its own epidermal growth factor. Thanks to these processes, facial tone noticeably improves and the skin is filled with energy.

Aquashine (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

Tripeptide-1 KOLLAREN and Tetrapeptide-9 DERMICAN

Activates the synthesis of basement membrane proteins and intercellular matrix (collagen, elastin, fibronectin, laminin), which promotes healing and restructuring of the skin. Indicated for chronological aging, cellular stress, UV irradiation, environmental pollution.

Revital (Renova, Italy)

Mesohydral “Peptide” formula (Mezopharm, Russia)

Tripeptide-10 Citrullin DECORINYL

An analogue of the decorin protein produced by the skin, the function of which is to control the formation of high-quality skin collagen. It is known that the formation of keloid scars and fibrous adhesions occurs mainly under the influence of the growth factor TGF-beta. Decorinil is able to suppress the activity of the transforming growth factor - TGF-beta (transforming growth factor), preventing the formation of scar tissue.

Revital (Renova, Italy)

1.2. Peptides that improve microcirculation and lymphatic drainage

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 EYESERYL

Tetrapeptide with anti-edema and drainage properties. Prevents cross-linking of collagen fibers and reduces vascular permeability, prevents intercellular edema. Effectively fights bags and dark circles under the eyes.

HA-Eyes (Optima, Italy)

3D-Eyes (Aurevitelli, Italy)

Mesohydral “Peptide” formula (Mezopharm, Russia)

Ageline Apriline (Suisselle, Switzerland)

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-8

Suppresses the production of inflammatory mediators, reduces vascular permeability, prevents the formation of edema and has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect.

HA-Eyes (Optima, Italy)

Revitaliser (Optima, Italy)

1.3. Lipolytic peptides

Tripeptide-41 LIPOXYN

Has the ability to penetrate subcutaneous tissue. Reduces the synthesis and rate of lipid accumulation, slows down the maturation (differentiation) of adipocytes. Strengthens lipolysis processes.

Eye bag Solution (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

Prostrolane Inner B (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

Oligopeptide-61 CELLSOLIN

It is a fragment of the growth hormone molecule. It initiates lipolysis, and is 12 times more active than growth hormone itself, and reduces the level of expression of adipogenesis factors. Stimulates the activity of fibroblasts and has an anti-inflammatory effect.

Eye bag Solution (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

How to get the most benefits from peptides in skin care?

Some dermatologists find the use of peptides to improve skin beneficial. Skin care products that use selective peptides contain ingredients that are designed to stimulate not only cell rejuvenation but also collagen production. The good news is that skin cells are able to obtain synthetic peptides through topical application.

Another factor to consider is that using anti-aging skin peptides takes time and slow improvements will be seen after a period of daily applications. In some cases, it may take up to three months for results to begin to appear. It's also worth remembering that when you stop using products containing peptides, your skin will slowly return to its original state and all the progress you've made will disappear.

Peptides are actually very similar to proteins, and they work as building blocks in our bodies at the cellular level. When skin care products are applied, they penetrate the epidermis and send signals to cells to increase collagen production. Once this happens, the skin tightens.

Another role that peptides play in the body is to help promote rapid healing of the skin. Because the peptides penetrate deeply into the various layers of the skin, they help heal the skin and also help stimulate collagen production. Research shows that copper peptide serum can help skin heal faster while stimulating collagen production.

One study conducted at Oregon State University found that when selective peptides were applied to a test group of women aged 35-55 for 12 weeks, there was a significant improvement in the volume and elasticity of their skin compared to placebo. This was a blinded study, and in addition, computer image analysis showed that regular applications of the peptides did not cause skin irritation, improving the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

Peptides that slow down enzymes.

These peptides work on the skin by inhibiting the activity of enzymes that destroy collagen, elastin and other proteins, and also stimulate excessive skin pigmentation. This type of peptide has the same principle of operation as retinol, so it can be called an alternative to products with retinoids for use in the summer.

2.1. Whitening peptides

MELANOSTATIN-5

It has a whitening effect due to the fact that it is an antagonist of alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, as a result of which it prevents the influence of hormonal impulses on the activation of the process of melanin synthesis, evening out skin tone.

Revital (Renova, Italy)

Aurevitelli P.Nutrivive (Nefis, Spain)

Tetrapeptide-30 TEGO® PEP 4-EVEN

Eliminates pigment spots stimulated by UV rays and has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect on irritated skin. Has antityrosinase activity.

Revital (Renova, Italy)

Oligopeptide-34 CG-TGP2 and Oligopeptide-24

Reduces the effect of melanocyte-stimulating hormone on melanocytes and the production (expression) of key molecules of melanogenesis, reduces the activity of tyrosinase, thereby blocking further reactions of melanin synthesis. Provides an anti-inflammatory effect by inhibiting the proliferation of activated T cells.

Aquashine (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

Dark Circle Solution (Caregen Co. Ltd, South Korea)

Other Ingredients in Skin Care Products

Quality skin care products contain antioxidants, such as berry extracts, to limit free radical and oxidative damage that can damage DNA in skin cells. But truly high-quality products also contain other beneficial ingredients.

Vitamin C is a very powerful antioxidant that has been proven to improve skin and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This is why it is often found in anti-aging products.

Vitamin E is also an antioxidant that works in tandem with vitamin C and can also help protect skin from harmful UV rays.

Polyphenols , which are plant compounds with powerful antioxidant properties, are also found in many foods and help reduce inflammation while producing a healing effect on the skin.

The bottom line is that antioxidants are a welcome addition to skin care products as they work in tandem with peptides and vitamins to enhance overall healing and anti-inflammatory effects. To be effective, a skin care product must be stable, have a strong concentration of antioxidants, and stay on the skin long enough to do its job.

It is also clear that additives contained in skin care products have a significant impact on the availability of peptides at the cellular level.

Transport peptides

Carrier peptides, called metallopeptides, deliver or stabilize trace elements such as copper and manganese, essential for wound healing and the enzymatic process.

Copper tripeptide

Performs its functions in the extracellular matrix and is released in wounds or inflammation to support healing. It promotes the synthesis of collagen, elastin, proteoglycan and glycosaminoglycan and provides anti-inflammatory and antioxidant responses.

HA-Skin Result (Optima, Italy)

Manganese tripeptide-1

Protects and fights photoaging, having proven an effective effect on skin restoration processes after prolonged exposure to the sun.

HA-Skin Result (Optima, Italy)

What else can you do to protect your skin and increase collagen levels?

The key factor on the path to youthful skin is collagen. Replacing it as you age or using it to address environmental stressors with topical formulations can help restore a more youthful appearance to your skin. But what else can you do to maintain and increase your collagen?

You may want to start avoiding the sun! Protecting your skin from the sun's harmful rays is one of the best ways to preserve collagen in your skin. In addition, UV radiation can lead to skin cancer, which is what we all fear.

And speaking of UV radiation, tanning beds must be excluded. Even though they don't emit UVB rays, they still use UVB rays, which can penetrate the skin and contribute to aging.

Eat a balanced diet high in antioxidants: your diet should contain plenty of fruits and vegetables. And if you're still smoking, find a way to stop! Cigarette smoke contains chemicals that negatively affect collagen and prevent the body from creating new collagen. This is one of the reasons why smokers have more wrinkles than non-smokers.

Topical antioxidants are a good way to reduce your skin's exposure to UV rays and help repair any skin damage that has already been done. Use them as part of your overall skin care routine.

Serums with acetyl hexapeptide-3 from Reviva Labs

In the compositions you can find acetyl hexapeptide-8 and acetyl hexapeptide-3. They are the same peptide, the only difference is the source. Under the trade name Argireline, the Spanish research laboratory Lipote markets acetyl hexapeptide-8, but acetyl hexapeptide-3 is essentially the same ingredient. Here, for example, in Reviva Labs we see acetyl hexapeptide-3 in its composition:

Reviva Labs, Hyaluronic Acid Peptide Facial Solution, Anti-Aging, 29.5 ml

iherb.com
RUB 1,756

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Jeffrey James Botanicals, Eye Cream, Brightening, Refreshing, 1.0 oz (29 ml)

★★★★☆
RUB 2,152

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Characteristics

  • Available from: 08.08.17 16:25:00
  • Product code : JEF-00706
  • UPC Code: 852364007061
  • Package Quantity : 1 oz.

Description

Suitable for all skin types Ethical Paraben & Sulfate Free Glow From Within Gluten Free Vitamin C, Green Tea and Eyebright to brighten and refresh the eye area. This gentle and luxurious moisturizer simply melts into your skin. We've created a delicious blend of licorice, eyebright, grapeseed oil, green tea, vitamins C, E and many other ingredients to nourish and improve the appearance of the delicate eye area. Our ApproachWe believe in the science of nature and believe that true beauty comes from within and guides all our actions. Using simple whole foods, pure minerals and active botanicals, we nourish your skin for a true, long-lasting glow. So enjoy the scent and feel of nature's perfection and glow from within. Geoffrey James, Founder.

Argireline body cream

And I’ll also highlight a cream with argireline for the body with an anti-cellulite effect. Or rather, it's oil. I love it very much - it’s like whipped, like a soufflé:

In the photo I have this cream with me in Jerusalem.

Greensations, Fresh Beauty Market, Anti-Cellulite Oil, 4 oz.

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RUB 1,401

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